On 29 September 1787, Mozart wrote a letter to his brother-in-law, Johann Baptist Franz Berchtold zu Sonnenburg to say he would be leaving early for Prague. This casual remark makes no mention of the fact that Mozart was travelling with his wife Constanze to direct the world premiere of the opera Don Giovanni (K527) which had been commissioned from him earlier that year by the impresario Pasquale Bondini. It was based on the tales of the literary libertine Don Juan, in another collaboration with his librettist, Lorenzo Da Ponte. It premiered at the Estates Theatre in Prague. The success of the 1786 Prague premiere of The Marriage of Figaro paved the way for Mozart’s first trip to Prague in 1787, where he conducted a performance of Figaro himself.
A golden plaque placed on the floor of the stage of the Estates Theatre in 1991, marks the exact place from where Mozart conducted Don Giovanni’s premiere. It reads in Czech: “On this spot, Mozart conducted on the stringed harpsichord.” Somehow the theatre still retains something of the essence of that night – the opera scenes of Czech director Milos Forman’s Oscar-winning 1984 film Amadeus, were shot within the original setting of the Estates. Forman stated in an interview in 2002 that when he and Amadeus playwright Peter Shaffer first arrived in Prague on location, Shaffer suddenly disappeared: “We found him in the corridor – hidden, crying, because there he learned he [was] standing exactly at the place where Mozart himself in person conducted the world premiere of Don Giovanni…”
The neoclassical Estates Theatre was built at the instigation of the aristocrat Frantisek Antonin Count Nostitz Rieneck and opened in 1783, four years before Don Giovanni’s premiere, with a performance of Lessing’s Emilia Galotti. The Latin inscription on the theatre’s pediment, Patriae et Musis (To the Native Land and the Muses) is entirely in keeping with the contemporary ideas of the Enlightenment, as part of which the arts and sciences were actively encouraged, the theatre being one such outlet for a wider exposure to literature and music, now more readily accessible outside of the privileged elite. The theatre was purchased in 1798 by the Czech Estates and renamed the Estates Theatre; following several name changes, it became the Tyl Theatre in 1948. Only after the completion of restoration work in 1990 did the theatre once again become the Estates Theatre. It is one of the few wooden baroque theatres of its kind to survive, with only minor alterations. A statue of Il Commendatore by Anna Chromy was erected in the year 2000 outside the Estates Theatre; a plaque commemorates the premiere.
Mozart’s birthday, 27 January, is usually celebrated by a special concert in the Estates Theatre.
In a way, the golden plaque in the floor of the Estates stage says it all – simply that Mozart conducted on that spot. For so much was the night of 29 October 1787 one of musical world history that the words ‘Don Giovanni’ are no longer necessary to add.
Elizabeth Jane Timms is a writer, historian
and freelance royal journalist. She contributes to an international
academic journal about royalty and also writes for magazines and the
web.