Manmade idyll

Frymburk isn't half the town it used to be - literally.

The Czechoslovak government of the 1950s evacuated and submerged parts of many villages and towns, including Frymburk, that lay along the upper Vltava River in south Bohemia to build a dam designed to prevent catastrophic flooding in the valley. The result was not only a hydroelectric plant capable of harnessing the power of the river, but also a manmade lake spanning 44 kilometers (27 miles) that looks as natural as the hilly landscape around it.

Nowadays, Lake Lipno is a haven for nature enthusiasts and water sports nuts alike. Located only 20 km from Český Krumlov, bordering the Šumava National Forest on one side and Austria on the other, it's also the closest one can get to the feel of the seaside without having to leave the country.

While Lipno nad Vltavou is the main marina town and namesake of the lake, Frymburk, just 5 km north along the shore, has maintained a more timeless feel, with a leafy main boulevard lined with restaurants and a picturesque church overlooking the bay (below which, consequently, the past of Frymburk sleeps). And the woodsy crisscross of narrow roads and trails that comprises a profusion of cottages and cabins has a less hectic pace than the Lego town that is Lipno, with its newly build resort hotels and German- and Dutch-owned condos.

Frymburk has several hotels and pensions, as well as caravan parks and campsites bordering on well-kept beaches, complete with wooden-hut walk-up bars, beach volleyball and paddle-boat and canoe rentals. The Wellness Hotel offers indoor pools, waterslides and whirlpools for respite during cloudy days, and glass-roofed tour boat rides set off from downtown Frymburk, giving you a sense of the vastness of the lake at its widest, reaching 10 km across near Černá v Pošumaví.

From Frymburk, there is also a car ferry - a small, local affair complete with a sea-faring dog. The village of Frýdava on the other bank opens up possibilities of meandering bike routes hugging the manmade shores, with forests rising steeply to one side, either looping down toward Lipno Dam or north to wider waters.

Delving farther up into the woods past Frýdava brings you by either the yellow hiking trail (12 km) or the more loping, green-labeled bike route up to the chapel of svatý Tomáš and Vítkův Kámen, the ruins of a medieval fort at 1,053 meters above sea level with views over the lake in its entirety - the only such vantage point save from an airplane. In the other direction, the Austrian Alps rise majestically through the mist. The Hotel Svatý Tomáš, located just minutes from the ruins, is a smartly renovated, rough-stone lodge with an above-standard restaurant serving interesting, German-influenced food for Czech prices.

Slightly farther afoot from Frymburk are the attractions of Vyšší Brod and Rožmberk nad Vltavou, which are two entry points for a rafting and canoeing route to Český Krumlov (roughly a six- to eight-hour ride). The highlights of Vyšší Brod are the still-functional Cistercian monastery, which has daily tours, and the Minipivovar Vyšší Brod, a brewery producing the local small-scale Jakub line of brews. The Rožmberk Castle is a sprawling testament to multiple architectural eras and, dating to 13th century, is one of the oldest castles in the region.

While Frymburk is a better base for exploring the lake and the hills, the town of Lipno is a good resource to have nearby, with options for boat rentals, windsurfing and lots of kid-friendly activities, such as those provided by Slide Land, a well-manicured complex that has a bobsled track, zip lines, tire courses and playgrounds aplenty. In winter, the area is a bustling ski resort, and in summer the ski lifts are open for rides and a dirt-bike course rakes down the slopes.

There is a network of public buses and ferries - and trains west of Lipno town - that serve the area, but timetables are spotty. Having a car is the ideal way to go, but there's enough to see and do on foot or by bike for any amount of time, especially if relaxation, perfect on one of the many small beaches fronting the lake or any of the forest trails, is what you're after.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com