Short trip, long journey

Where the Labe and Vltava rivers meet sits Mělník, a vinicultural and historic town more reminiscent of Moravian wine country than the flatlands of central Bohemia, though it is just 35 kilometers (22 miles) north of Prague.

Mělník has a grand chateau, vineyards and a bone church to rival Kutná Hora's, and in itself is an ideal daytrip from the capital, as well as a gateway into CHKO Kokořínsko, 272 square kilometers of dense forest and hills, sandstone rocks, lakes and fairytale castles. While difficult to reach by public transportation alone, parts of the nature reserve can be easily accessed by bike from Mělník, and combining the two in a weekend trip allows you to escape into Bohemian wine country and venture deep into some of the country's most stunning landscapes.

There are direct buses from Holešovice, but to go with a bike, it's a rewarding ride from Dolní Beřkovice - the nearest direct train stop from Prague - up to Mělník's Renaissance chateau, which overlooks the rivers' confluence. The chateau is Mělník's major landmark and used to house the kings' widows, and the town's namesake wine, Sv. Ludmila, is named after the princess who began the winemaking tradition in the area. The chateau's tower provides excellent views over the flatlands and náměstí Míru, the main square. The chateau is also the center of events for the Vinobraní wine festival in September.

Sv. Ludmila wines, available in both red and white, can be sampled at numerous places, including the leafy courtyard café adjacent to the regional museum, right on náměstí Míru, which runs wine-tastings and houses an interesting exhibit on wine-making in the region as well as odd rotating shows, such as one on historical baby carriages.

The pastel-colored Baroque architecture of Mělník's center feels more akin to its Italian-influenced, Moravian brethren, and while it's tempting to while away hours at any of the local outdoor cafés or bars (the Zámek cukrárna, in particular, is a treat), the lush wilderness to the east beckons just beyond.

The Kokořínsko nature reserve starts about 6 kilometers from Mělník, and traversing the distance to Kokořín Castle, the vast park's most popular site, is easy by bike, for a one-way total of approximately 21 kilometers. Yes, you have to navigate some traffic on some sun-parched roads to get out of the city limits, but it's a fun downhill ride from the town center, and following the No. 13/9 route promises minimal time next to cars. Mělník's busy streets give way to quieter, flatter roads where you can feel the pace of life sync with your pedaling, and it isn't long before you're surrounded by tall pines, sandstone rocks and peaceful cottage communities.

Traversing the path north through the meandering Kokořín Valley lets you stop at Harašov Lake, a clear, sandy-based body of water that sits right off the road but is ringed by forest and the ruins of a former hotel. There are no facilities here save for a half-built structure where people change, but it is an unspoiled place to swim with an easy-access beach that provides a much-welcome respite from the heat.

It's tempting to stay at Harašov, but just 2 kilometers down the shady road is a pub called Hostinec U Báby Šubrový that pours some of the coldest Svíjany beer and serves up big platters of cheap and thoughtful food. Needless to say, it's usually packed with bikers, but if you can't find a spot on the terrace, the inside is surprisingly cool, with high ceilings and dark wood furniture.

Kokořín Castle is only minutes away, and the most difficult hill lies ahead. A series of hairpin turns (1.5 km) wind up to the castle, where, if your legs can take a bit more of a workout, it's worth climbing the tower. You'll be rewarded with sweeping views of rolling forested hills presenting a sea of pine. The castle grounds are rumored to have inspired the likes of poet Karel Mácha, and the castle itself dates to the 14th century. In season, tours of its halls and former living quarters are available.

Doubling back to Mělník is a pretty straight shot on the No. 2 trail: After a few more breathtaking hills and vistas, the road plateaus and wanders through open fields and a few dusty villages, where, if you're lucky, you might be welcomed at a local pig roast, before re-entering the Mělník suburbs.

Back in Mělník, náměstí Míru has several options for refreshments. The Vinárna Modrá hvězda, a labyrinthine stone-cellar restaurant, promises artful game and lamb dishes and plenty of the local tipple, while Noční bar Díra, a wooden, Irish-style rock bar, spills out onto the square and pours cheap Guinness and a mean gin and tonic (with Hendrick's gin, only 85 Kč). But be careful not to lose track of time for getting to Dolní Beřkovice for the train back - unless, of course, you've decided to stay overnight and explore Mělník and its surrounding countryside even further.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com