Putting on a festive face for Bohemian Carnevale revelry

Prague has long hosted pre-Lenten celebrations. For the third consecutive year, Bohemian Carnevale will stake its claim to add to the tradition with 10 full days of can't-miss free events including boat rides, Baroque-style ballroom dancing and trips to the top of the Astronomical Clock tower. There is a dress code, however: Venetian masks are required.

The festivities kick off Feb. 6 with the traditional "Meeting of the Masks."

"All those who want to participate will gather in front of the Astronomical Clock at 4 p.m. and will ask the mayor to open the city to Carnevale and happiness," says Zlatuše Müller, director and creator of Bohemian Carnevale. From there, those in festive masks get free access to the towers, the Charles Bridge Museum, Venetian-style boat rides and much more.

In the winter gloom of February, Praguers are looking for cheer, and Müller, a former stage designer and model, says avoiding the seasonal melancholy should be motivation enough.

"There is only one reason I started Carnevale. I wanted to see dancing, beautiful costumes and happiness in the winter, when it is such a sad time to be in Prague," he says. "Carnevale didn't exist here during communism, and I knew if it was going to, I was going to have to do it myself. I wanted to tell my children who were sad that Christmas was over, 'Cheer up! There's no reason to be sad. After Christmas, there is Carnevale!' "

Also on the agenda is a Baroque ball called the Crystal Ball, at Clam-Gallas palace, where participants will wear masks, along with traditional 18th-century garb.

"It is a special Valentine's event," Müller says. "We will have all the boys in one circle and the girls in the other. Then, in the way we have designed the dance, each person will have a chance to dance with each other, and at the end give a heart to the person they like the most. Whoever has the most hearts will be the winner."

Etymologically, Carnevale comes from the Italian carne levare, or "removal of the meat," a reference to the indulgences Christians must forgo during Lent. Rest assured, there will be no shortage of carnivorous cuisine at the pre-Lenten Prague festivities. Special meat-heavy Carnevale menus will be offered, like the Carnevale package at Le Palais and a traditional Czech hog-feast at the Hotel InterContinental.  

Carnevale is slowly becoming a staple in Prague since it was recognized by the Federation of European Carnevale Cities (FECC) in 2007. Historically, the Czech Republic has had Carnevale-like celebrations for more than 800 years as an integral part of Christian tradition, but the celebration was repressed during communism for fear that unidentifiable masked patrons might use the festival as an opportunity to incite revolt against the regime.

"The idea to bring the municipal Carnevale celebrations of Prague back to life started to develop about seven years ago," says Lucie Turnovská, the manager of Bohemian Carnevale. "The aim is to restore Prague Carnevale celebrations. We also want to develop a broader platform for helping businesses and cultural entities to present activities associated with the tradition."

And the city is more than happy go to get involved.

"It is important for our Czech heritage," says Alexandr Koráb, a spokesman for Prague 1 district. "The Carnevale is an attempt to revive the tradition from the times of Emperor Rudolf, which belongs to Prague's historical roots."

Philip Heijmans can be reached at
pheijmans@praguepost.com