Weekends: Fresh tracks in south Bohemia

For lovers of hiking, there's nothing quite like traversing several kilometers of peaceful terrain without encountering another soul, or having your footprints be the first human ones on a path of freshly fallen, untouched snow. The Czech Republic is blessed with hundreds of kilometers of such great outdoors, and the region of south Bohemia, particularly veering into the Šumava National Park, has some of the most pristine, offering not only meandering field and forest trails through hills and valleys but also some of the country's most beautiful historic towns.

Most everyone has heard of Český Krumlov, but it is far from being the only fairy-tale destination in the region. About 23 kilometers south of Český Krumlov lies the sleepy town of Rožmberk nad Vltavou, which hugs a bend in the Vltava River close to its source. Its castle is one of the oldest in Bohemia, with the first mention of it dating to 1253, and was the original residence of the Rožmberk family, which moved in 1302 to Český Krumlov; the family's symbol, a five-petaled rose, is a common sight in both towns.

Rožmberk is a popular destination in warmer months, as the stretch of the Vltava between its banks and Český Krumlov forms one of the best stretches for rafting and canoeing. But it has an appeal year-round - indeed, visiting in the off-season provides a quiet respite - and serves as a good base for a venturing into the forested hills around it; on a clear day, one can see all the way into Austria. The trail that connects Rožmberk with the nearby monastery town of Vyšší Brod, located about 7 kilometers up the Vltava, is the ideal way to experience both towns, and to sample a welcoming beer at the Vyšší Brod microbrewery, which is connected to its historic monastery.

Rožmberk Castle sits majestic in a crux of hills, visible from afar. Following several reconstructions in the 16th and 19th centuries, parts of the castle are built in the Renaissance and Gothic styles, respectively. Tours are available in English, German and Czech, and include Romantic-period rooms, the armory and the castle's considerable collection of paintings (180 Kč), such as that of Perchta of Rožmberk, who is rumored to walk the halls still and is known as the White Lady. Additional tours (130 Kč) feature the private apartments of the Buquoy family, who lived in the castle from 1620 until World War II, and the English Tower (40 Kč), which, at the top of 200 steps, yields panoramic views of the surrounding domain.

Rožmberk has only just a little more than 300 inhabitants, but due to its summertime rush is also home to several hotels and restaurants, most of which have riverside seating and outdoor grills for the warmer months, as well as fireplaces and cozy interiors for the last of the winter chill. The Hotel Růže, for example, offers tidy, comfortable rooms with views of the castle, several of which have large, covered balconies, and the Hotel U Martina, just a few doors down on the main square, has a uniquely kitsch pirate-themed bar, Kocábka, which pours Kozel lagers and has a solid range of pub fare, as well as a 15 percent discount off food on Saturday nights.

There are myriad walks to do around Rožmberk, such as the 7-kilometer loop following the red trail along the road up to the village of Přízeř and then the yellow trail down through the forest to the Hotel Studenec and restaurant where picture windows give views over the hills, and the country-size portions of hearty fare and venison specialties are enough to fortify one for the day. This path then loops down, crossing the river and going through the woods behind Rožmberk Castle, leading right to its doors, with a colorful view over the town.

A slightly longer but rewarding route is over the hills from Rožmberk to Vyšší Brod, a looping and varied path that affords no shortage of views on a clear day and a good mix of field and forest walking. The red trail is easy to follow (the route is the same up to Přízeř, where it turns), and it lopes across the countryside toward Vyšší Brod, where the Cistercian monastery, which dates to the 13th century, beckons one on to warm food and a crisp Jakub beer. The microbrewery brews the 12° light lager and the 14° dark lager, made with chocolate malt.

At just over four hours' away by train or bus, Rožmberk nad Vltavou is doable as a weekend trip, either by itself or in combination with Český Krumlov or the nearby Lake Lipno. Most of the journey there is on the direct Prague-Linz rail route, with a change at the tiny Rybník station for a local putt-putt carriage that takes visitors the rest of the way, winding along the river past cottage communities, beer gardens and campgrounds. Rožmberk's train station is located several kilometers outside of the town proper, though, so be prepared to walk; another option is to take the train to Vyšší Brod and catch a 20-minute bus between the two towns.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com