Raucous Bacchus: Masopust in Prague

During Carnivale, locally known as Masopust, the true Czech spirit dances down Prague's streets as folkloric pageantry and Slavic mythology meet artistic ingenuity, tradition and good old-fashioned merrymaking. Masks are made and donned, and everyone is welcome to take part.  

In the days that run up to Ash Wednesday, this year falling on Feb. 21, almost every town and city nationwide stages its own Masopust festivities, weaving in local traditions that traverse generations and stories that are unveiled through the course of a procession. In the capital, there are numerous parades and parties, many of which feature events for families and all of which include a healthy dose of Bacchanalian tipples - of both the grain and grape variety - to stave off the cold and fuel the merriment.

In the Czech lands, Masopust (literally "giving up meat") dates to at least the 13th century, and long ago evolved from the Christian roots of Carnivale, following instead the more pagan rituals of folklore and community. Costumes are usually handmade, or at least self-compiled, and comprise a rag-tag collection of characters that include everything from animals, brides and grooms, witches, two-man horses, grim reapers, scarecrows and Bacchus himself. But there's no limit, and creativity is appreciated; masks are often paper-maché contraptions, and for anyone with stilt-walking skills, this is your festival.

Several Prague districts have something planned this year, many for Saturday, Feb. 18, with the biggest celebrations traditionally held in Žižkov and Malá Strana. This year will mark the 19th for the Žižkov Masopust, which is staged over four days and usually attracts between 3,000 and 5,000 revelers - making it not only the largest in the country but also the longest-running since the fall of communism.  

Jan Sotona, the spokesman for Prague 3, which organizes the annual event, says his district's is different than other Masopusts, "because Žižkov is a hub of independent culture." Indeed, each Masopust draws on its local lore, and this year's Žižkov celebrations are dedicated to Fešák Hubert, a character from a 1984 Czech comedy.

Festivities in Žižkov begin Feb. 18 with a masked afternoon for kids, starting at 2 p.m. at the Palác Akropolis café. A theater performance, fairy-tales and prizes will follow, and at 7 p.m. the music venue downstairs opens its doors for a rock 'n' roll party with an Elvis revival band, among others, and one free beer and pork sausage for all guests.

The next day, the festivities move to Hospoda U vystřelenýho oka, where a Masopust feast takes place, accompanied by children's activities and performances by several theater troupes. On Sunday, Kino Aero takes the stage, with fairy-tale performances, theater, a film and live concert by the band Koza na útesu.     

But the highlight of the four days, Sotona says, will be the procession, which starts Tuesday, Feb. 20, at 5 p.m. on náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad, topping off a daylong traditional zabíjačka (pig-killing) feast, and parades around the neighborhood before returning for concerts and revelry on the square that often lasts until the wee hours.

For a boozy tour of some of Prague's prettiest parts (and some of its most historic pubs), Malá Strana's Merry Masopust meets between 1 and 1:30 p.m. outside the legendary U Černého vola on Loretánské náměstí to parade the cobbled streets in costume, stopping six times for refreshment at : U Dvou slunců, U zeleného čaje, Krčma U Brabanta, Pivnice u Hrocha, Malostranská Caffeteria, Jo's Bar and Starbucks.

Running from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. that day, stands will be set up on Kampa by Charles Bridge serving mulled wine, mead, grog and beer, as well as traditional Masopust donuts, goulash, and roast pork specialties. The bands G-Divers, Dixi Band, Byl Pes, Rock'n'Roll Gang and Romano Trajo will keep feet tapping on the square from 1 p.m.

Now in its 15th year, Masopust in the satellite town of Roztoky u Prahy has a unique tradition, and provides a glimpse of a real, countrified celebration. Thousands turn up to march in costume across the fields to meet the townsfolk of neighboring Únětice for a mock battle - sometimes a snowball fight, sometimes a tug-of-war - before winding up in Únětice for a zabíjačka, concerts and dancing. The award-winning Únětický pivovar will be serving its Masopust beer specially for the event.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com