A return to old-fashioned revelry

Here's the perfect antidote to the dreary days of February: Bohemian Carnevale, 11 days of feasting, dancing, dressing up and getting wild in the streets.

"Throw away your problems and be whoever you want to be," says Zlatuše J. Müller, general manager of Bohemian Carnevale.

The pre-Lenten season always brings a spate of Shrovetide celebrations in Prague, and Carnevale, now in its third year at the historic Clam-Gallas Palace in Old Town, has blossomed into the most elaborate. Müller, a stage designer by trade, started with a few scattered events in 2004, which by 2007 had blossomed into a full-blown festival. This year, she's planning two stunning balls along with parades, a children's party and costumes for kids of all ages.

"We want to revive the traditional Carnevale atmosphere and imagine how people used to enjoy this wonderful period, how they spent these festive days, how they dressed, what they ate and how they rejoiced," Müller explains.

The festivities are divided into four categories: Salon, Galacticos, Divertimento and Cuisine. The Salon is the heart of Carnevale, a central gathering point where revelers can meet, rent costumes and masks, have their portraits taken and talk over coffee. Galacticos is the umbrella name for all the parties and the two balls, with the latter - Bellaria Feb. 14 and the Crystal Ball Feb. 21 -promising to be glittery affairs.

"Bellaria is the garden of earthly delights," says Müller. "You can enter into a world of fantasy, music and joy. It's a galactic scene featuring charming florists, stylists never to be forgotten and stars of Bohemian style."

The Crystal Ball is more traditional, with an 18th-century theme and period costumes required. "The first week is about design, fashion, glamour - the modern carnival," explains Müller. "The second is more traditional, a remake of the 18th century."

The social gatherings include two special events. Hot Chocolate (Feb. 19 and 20 at 5 p.m.) revives an 18th-century tradition in which people would meet early in the evening over an innocent cup of hot chocolate, and decide where they should secretly rendezvous later that night. Aperitif (Feb. 19 and 20 at 7:30 p.m.) brings the Italian tradition of stopping after work for a glass of wine and some light food to Prague. Müller describes Aperitif as "a carnival drink and a little dreaming." The Aperitif segment includes entertainment, samplings of Baroque theater and dancing.

For those who want an introductory taste of Carnevale, the Divertimento events may hold the most appeal. There will be two parades. The first is Carnevale's kickoff, which begins on Old Town Square Feb. 14 at 3 p.m. The second is a shorter one, starting at 3:30 p.m. Feb. 21, from Clam-Gallas Palace to Old Town Square, where there will be a costume competition starting at 4. And the Carnevale celebration wraps on Tuesday night, Feb. 24, with a fireworks show on Kampa Island beginning at 9.

As for Cuisine, that will be served at a group of restaurants offering special menus for Carnevale. The idea is to feast before the fasting begins. "Carnevale meals focus on meat, because after Lent starts it is forbidden," Müller says. "Carne means meat, and vale means valid now."

Participating restaurants include Bellevue, Zlatá Praha at the Intercontinental Hotel, Essensia at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Mlynec, Žofin Garden and V Zatisi, just to name a few.

Children will enjoy some of the festivities, in particular the parades. There's also a special children's event Feb. 15: Amoretto, a ball for the younger set, with a costume contest and Austrian dancers who will be giving lessons. There will also be a workshop on making costumes and masks.

No one is more enthusiastic about all this than Müller. "I'm completely obsessed by it, and making sure that it will continue and people will enjoy it," she says with a laugh. "I have to believe the inspiration will work."

There are ticket options for every budget. You can buy tickets for individual events, packages for multiple events or a Carnevale pass that includes discounts on ticket prices and meals at participating restaurants. There's also a "double pleasure" offer - buy a ticket for one ball and get a ticket for the other free.

However you choose to celebrate, make sure you take full advantage of the Carnevale mystique.  

"Carnevale isn't only on the streets, but in the restaurants and parties in the Palace," Müller says. "We hope more people will join in and all of Prague will be involved."

Jacy Meyer can be reached at
features@praguepost.com