Big wines from a small country

By John & Helena Baker

FOR THE POST

Among the world's most prestigious wine-tasting competitions is the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, which continued its peripatetic way around Europe, settling this year in a tiny country not far from its Belgian homeland, in the capital city of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. This nation of just over half a million inhabitants happily boasts being the world's sixth smallest, 2,586 square kilometers in size, but it nevertheless occupies a special position in the wine world.  

The wine area is in the southeast of the country, along a mere 42 kilometers on the west bank of the valley of the Moselle, the river that marks the frontier with Germany, whose Upper Mosel vineyards across the river, it has to be said, represent the least renowned section of the great German region known as the Mosel. This is the northern frontier of viticultural possibilities, although thanks to the large river surface the mean annual temperature is about 2 degrees above the national average, with both maritime and Continental climatic influences coming into play, making conditions propitious for viticulture, although hail, late frosts and mold infections are always likely to be problematic.

Luxembourg's wine region has a total of 1,298 hectares under vine, down since the 1980s as lesser sites have been abandoned in the pursuit of quality. There are only about 50 wineries in total, with five large cooperatives dominating production. As in most of the world, with the exception of the classic regions of France and Germany, the modern winemaking boom only really took off in the 1980s, with new consumer interest fueled by new arrivals on the market and the internationalisation of styles as well as grape varieties. It was a case of adapt or die.    

Soils are rich in limestone and dolomite clay in the steep narrow northern section of the Moselle valley in the province of Grevenmacher, with the village of Ahn giving some excellent slow-maturing Rieslings, while in the alluvial plain to the south the softer slopes of Remich province soils are clay-rich with a marl sub-stratum, giving in general a more rounded end result. Best-known villages here are Remich itself, Schengen and Wintrange, all lying in the far southeast.

The varieties that take the limelight are mainly typical Northern European grapes like Riesling and the Pinot family, Rivaner (aka Müller-Thurgau) and the apparently autochthonous Auxerrois, a variety local oenologists rate as having excellent potential, and Elbling.

This last is an old favorite, giving sharp, thoroughly acidic wines that have fallen out of favor lately as consumers have been exposed to richer and more interesting examples from home and abroad.

Luxembourg wines have traditionally been vinified to dryness, unlike much from over the border, although sweeter offerings are now available, such as late-harvest and ice wines. Prices locally are also very reasonable.

Then there are also acclaimed sparklers, Crémants de Luxembourg, made by the traditional method. The appellation itself is very recent, though; this year it celebrates its 20th anniversary.  

Little wine is exported, but 66 percent of what is not consumed at home goes to neighboring Belgium, one of Europe's main wine markets with little production of its own. Another neighbor, Germany, takes the rest.

Winery of the month: Vinařství Žídek  

For 50 years, the Žídek family of Popice, near Hustopeče, has been growing grapes, for even the commmunists never banned such private agricultural practices, under the assumption the resulting wine was for family consumption only. Their current 30 hectares include tracts on the famed Svudrunk and Sonberg vineyards.

Much investment in recent years has gone into new vineyard planting and modernisation of the winery, and total annual production now reaches an amazing 200,000 liters. Care has been taken to preserve the environment, so visitors can marvel not only at the nicely laid-out vines but the majesty of the surrounding landscape with the dominant Pálava heights at Mikulov. Labels show the chapel that stands right in the middle of the vineyard. There is a new tasting room and the possibility of accommodation. Vinozidek.cz  

Wines of the month

Sparkling: Poll-Fabaire Cuvée Cult Crémant de Luxembourg Brut

Producer: Domaines Vinsmoselle, Wormeldange, Luxembourg    

Luxembourg's largest wine cooperative, accounting for two-thirds of all production, has a huge plant in Wormeldange producing sekts under the ubiquitous Poll-Fabaire label, the first Luxembourg brand of crémant launched in 1991. It has a persistent mousse with an expressive nose of citrus fruit laced with smokey-mineral undertones and typical brioche nuances so characteristic of quality sparklers. (Around 350 Kč)  

White: Schengen Markusberg Pinot Blanc 2009 Grand Premier Cru    

Producer: Caves Krier Freres, Remisch, Schengen Markusberg, Luxembourg  

Coming from the village of Schengen, which stands appropriately on three frontiers (Luxembourg, Germany and France), immortalised by the treaty for a barrier-free Europe signed here, this light-straw wine has a forward fruity nose, is zesty, fresh, with delightful lemony overtones and a nice balance of sweetness versus acidity. Very pleasant drinking. (Around 250 Kč)  

Events diary

ZD Sedlec winery is part of the National Wine Trails network around the Nesyt artificial lake - the largest in south Moravia - and wines can be tasted in situ at the informal rolling tasting taking place in the winery compound, Under the Pergola, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day throughout the summer. They also organize a Poetic Summer of several informal oeno-touristic events: the Sedlec Repete July 23 and Sedlec Finále Aug. 13, both of which start at 11 a.m. and allegedly finish around midnight for those who can still stand.

These events are replete with dulcimer and other music, tombolas, fish and meats prepared on the grill, with wine aplenty with the possibility of purchasing at ex-cellar prices. Parking, tent space and a children's playground are readily available. Cyclists welcome. See Sedleckavina.cz.

The writers can be reached at features@praguepost.com