Good food news amid bad times

Coinciding with the countdown to Michelin's March 16th announcement of any new stars for the Czech Republic, French and Czech media have been abuzz recently with news that Michelin-starred French chef Marc Veyrat is planning to open an eco-friendly restaurant in the middle of a forest in central Bohemia.

According to the French news agency Agence France-Press (AFP), Veyrat is still in talks with potential investors to create the "Glade Pub" restaurant near Beroun, but has already sought the collaboration of Czech architects Petr Suske and Zdeněk Rajniš to design the wooden lodge.

AFP reported that the restaurant is expected to cost 60 million to 100 million Kč. While everything is apparently ready on paper, the project is on hold due to the economic crisis.

Veyrat, the holder of three prestigious Michelin stars, is renowned for marrying wild ingredients with molecular gastronomy, creating such fanciful dishes as "cubist tilefish, white chocolate leaf, lemon grass" and "woodland soufflé, nitrogen."

The 58-year-old chef has also made headlines in recent weeks with his announcement that he is closing his restaurant "La Maison de Marc Veyrat" in France because he is still recovering from a serious ski injury three years ago. But just because he's quitting the kitchen doesn't mean he's retreating from the culinary scene.

AFP noted that Veyrat has increasingly become focused on organic products and on setting up an ecological farmstead in his native village of Manigod in the French Alps. Given that, can Glade Pub be far behind?

Local restaurant expert Pavel Maurer, who recently had dinner with Veyrat, says he believes that securing funding for Glade Pub could be a real difficulty. But, if the project does get off the ground, Nigel Mort, chancelier of the Prague gastronomy group Chaine des Rotisseurs, says he expects the market would embrace Veyrat's organic, chemistry-inspired cooking.

"I believe that the Czechs are always interested in new ideas," Mort says. "We already have La Veranda and La Galerie [in Prague] with extensive organic menus. … So I believe that this move will be well-received."

Restaurant critic Laura Baranik, who writes The Prague Spoon blog (Praguespoon.blogspot.com), also noted that the project is a very ambitious one. "But it could be just the kind of thing to turn the Czech Republic into more of a culinary destination than it has been in the past," she says. "It's a good sign that a chef of Veyrat's caliber is willing to put his faith in the Czech market - and so much so that he is opening a restaurant outside of Prague."

What crisis?

There may be no more blatant sign of the economic slowdown than the multitude of empty and half-empty restaurants around the city. But these troubled times haven't deterred several new establishments from launching in Prague.

The Sheraton Hotel finally opened on Žitna street, near Karlovo náměstí, March 1, and along with it a new restaurant, Brasserie Délice. Executive chef Jan Pípal has prepared an a la carte menu of French dishes such as bouillabaisse from Marseille (390 Kč), Nicoise salad (240 Kč), and coq au vin (690 Kč).

The hotel also houses a Sweet Coffee Cup Café, a Diamond Bar and a rooftop terrace bar, called High 8, with a view of Prague Castle.

The 7 Tacos Restaurant & Café opened late last month at the Plaza Alta Hotel at Ortenovo nám. 22 in Prague 7. As the name suggests, the menu focuses on Mexican dishes like tacos, burritos, chimichangas and fajitas (95-325 Kč), but it also includes a few token Czech specialties like goulash and traditional Czech duck. For more information, see 7tacos.cz.

Last but not least, the U.S.-based chain Hooters, known for its chicken wings and busty waitresses, is planning to open not just one or two but at least six restaurants in the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Hooters confirmed last month that it has awarded the franchise to Na Zdraví Ventures, which will open the first restaurant in Prague later this year. Last fall, Na Zdraví Ventures had said it could bring Hooters to Prague by this summer, but in its latest statement gives no specific timeline.

"The Hooters concept has a unique niche in the marketplace and I know it will be successful in Central Europe as it has been in the United States," Steven Parker, CEO of Na Zdraví Ventures, said in the statement. "The people of these two countries enjoy going out frequently with friends for food and fun, and Hooters will fit into that culture perfectly."

As for that other international brand, Hard Rock Café, the Florida-based parent company issued a press release Feb. 27, announcing that its Prague Old Town location won't be open until early April.

The Prague Hard Rock, located in the historic Rotta building, was initially supposed to open in September 2008. But the opening has repeatedly been postponed, reportedly by city building requirements for historic structures that have delayed reconstruction work.

And in other news …

The Mövenpick restaurant at the Mövenpick Hotel in Anděl is launching a new "lunch club" concept for budget-conscious diners, with a continuously changing menu starting at 159 Kč. Call 257 151 111 for more information. Meanwhile, CzecHouse at Hilton Prague is closed for lunch, opening at 6 p.m. daily.

Finally, Mandarin Oriental hotel's Indonesian Festival ends March 15. But there's still time to sample its special "Indonesian Delight Menu," or join its Indonesian cooking class March 14. The class costs 2,500 Kč per person. Call 233 088 777 for more information.

Wency Leung can be reached at
wleung@praguepost.com