Love in the time of commerce

St. Valentine, because of his dubious historical record, was removed from the Catholic Church's official calendar of saints in 1969. It's uncertain exactly who he was, or if in fact the saint's feast day was simply a reference to several Valentinus' who were martyred in ancient Rome. That doesn't seem to have kept him down, though, and much like American Idol runners-up, he seems to have outshined the vast majority of the legitimate saints, his only competitors on the market being Sts. Nicholas and Patrick.

Valentine's Day is also a controversial holiday. For every two suckers who throw themselves into the spirit with cards, candy and crimson accessories, there is another who falls between pretending not to remember what day it is and bitter denunciations of cheap commercialism.

But cynicism is old hat in this world. I loved Valentine's Day well before I had any notion of romantic love. My mother made heart-shaped pancakes, and after school we would find chocolates wrapped in bright red foil at home.

Being single on this holiday doesn't mean crying clichéd tears into your drink or pint of ice cream. Make your own valentine for someone who needs cheering up, or take a beloved friend out for dinner. Nobody cares about how much you hate Valentine's Day. So put your face on, pretend it hasn't been overcast for three months, and treat someone. Here are a few highlights of local options:

More for less

You really, really meant to try out the Grand Restaurant Festival this year, didn't you? But somehow you never got around to it. Well, it ends Feb. 15. Valentine's Day is Feb. 14. That means something! Go to Grandrestaurantfestival.cz, buy tickets that range between 250 and 600 Kč, and enjoy a multicourse meal at any of the participating restaurants. These include, in Prague, La Degustation Boheme Bourgeouise, Bellevue, SaSaZu and several hotel restaurants.

Candlelight and harp

The Hilton's CzecHouse Grill & Rotisserie will put on a five-course meal Monday, Feb. 14, including a glass of champagne, live harp music, and yes, candlelight. The cost is 2,950 Kč per couple. In case you have a lot more than a glass of champagne, or want to keep the party going, couples can upgrade to an overnight package for 5,500 Kč.

If you'd rather celebrate on the weekend, the Hilton Old Town's Zinc restaurant will offer a four-course meal both Friday and Saturday, Feb. 11 and 12. Dinner is 2,900 Kč per couple, and a special Valentine's Sunday brunch is 990 Kč per person.

DIY love-in

Yes, it's cheesy, but flowers and chocolates are never a bad thing. Gourmet specialty shops are an easy way to bring decadence home, with little preparation.

For the main course, Aromi's La Bottega is a cornucopia of important Italian cured meats, hard-to-find cheeses, beautiful wines and even chocolates. Even if you're unsure of Italian delicacies, the staff is friendly and eager to help you pick out great pairings. Do your shopping online at Aromi.cz, and they'll even deliver within 12 business hours.

Cacao Sampaka, in the newly opened Galerie Harfa, isn't just a chocolate shop, it's a market. The Spanish chain has only a couple of outlets in exclusive markets, and Prague has lucked out. You can pick out treats for your honey, but it would be a shame not to include them in the shopping experience.

The market includes chocolates in eight "collections": Single bean origin, dried fruit and nuts, cocoas and spices from the Americas, herbs and flowers, fruits and preserves, truffles and "gastronomic innovations." That's aside from the 18 different types of chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauces and jams, and kitchen instruments for making your own chocolate or fondues. Check out their website at Cocoasampaka.com.

I see your six-course dinner and raise you a diamond ring

Asking the love of your life to make the ultimate commitment - marriage - is fraught with anxiety. You have to leave your house, travel to a jewelry store and choose a ring that both symbolizes how you feel and suits her tastes. Bo-ring. Here's an alternative: The Kempinski Hybernska Hotel's Valentine's package is leaving no stone unturned: It comes with a diamond engagement ring. A 0.2-carat diamond engagement ring, to be exact. For 1,150 euros, a couple will get said ring, a night in an executive suite, a bottle of Billecart Salmon champagne, a fruit platter, a six-course dinner at Le Grill restaurant and a ride home the next morning in a BMW 7 series. That ride could either be a very happy or a very awkward one.

Say cheese

One of the most obviously opulent restaurants in Prague, Alchymist Club and its executive chef, Georges Rognar, who won a Michelin star at a previous restaurant, has prepared a special Valentine's Day menu that sounds like it will live up to the décor: Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, a duo of cold and pan-fried duck foie gras, grilled scallops with porcinis and a melting heart chocolate cake on ivory custard are just a couple of the six courses. The cost is 1,950 Kč per couple. For more information, visit Alchymist.cz.

Strawberries and Cream The Mövenpick Hotel's Il Giardino restaurant will host a five course dinner on Feb. 14. The meal includes an appetizer course with buffalo mozzarella, scallops with olive tapenade, blinis with red caviar, fava bean pesto and an arugula and spinach salad, a duck consomme with homemade tortellini, tiger prawns with mojito dressing and slices of coal roast beef fillet on violet potato confit with chorizo sauce. Desserts will include a strawberry version of Tiramisu cake. For reservations, contact 257 153 410. For more sweet Valentine's tips, see Čau Down at Blogs.praguepost.com.

Claire Compton can be reached at
ccompton@praguepost.com