Pigging out

"You do realize that dish is 900 grams, right?" said the waitress.

"Yes. I'll have it," my dining companion answered warily, swallowing hard.

To have the Old Bohemian platter at Sokolovna means to share, as the dish - a traditional sampler of roast duck, several types of pork, two kinds of dumplings and both red and white cabbage, all topped with fried onions - is empire-sized, and only fit for hardy stomachs and those with a love of animals - eating them, that is.

It's a typical Czech dish, and Sokolovna prides itself on being a concept gastropub whose theme is a return to classic local cuisine. The historical Sokol movement of the Czech lands sought to foster morality, intellect and fitness, and, while quaffing extra-fresh tank Pilsner or varying degrees of Kozel while consuming vast plates of sausage is more of a sedentary exercise than, say, synchronized aerobics with 5,000 of your closest comrades, Sokolovna does foster a community feel akin to a favorite local pub.

Getting a little help from your friends in finishing a dish is one way to keep the atmosphere communal, and there are many items on Sokolovna's menu that are perfect for sharing. A vast list of starter plates includes a "zabijačkový talíř," which features the prized preparations of pork after a pig-killing, namely freshly made blood sausage and hash sausage, along with sour cabbage and horseradish cream.

There are quite a few different sausage starters, and the sausage sampler (139 Kč) is a good way to try several. Three huge, plump sausages - one red (venison sausage), one white (Bavarian) and one brown (beer sausage with cheese) - are presented on a board with sliced white onions, peppers, mustard and horseradish. The freshness is apparent: The sausages ooze juices and flavor, with skins that snap under the knife, and contain quality, thoroughly ground innards and no nauseating chunks of gristle. It was hard to pick a favorite, but the cheesy beer sausage particularly took me by surprise.

Another starter, a selection of appetizers, is an ideal way to immerse oneself in the pickling and pork traditions of Czech beer snacks. A vast board held half a round of pickled hermelín cheese, which was nicely spicy from a red-pepper paste but could have stewed longer in its oils; a halved utopenec, or pickled sausage, which was typically vinegary and stuffed with pickles and slices of onion; two triangles of a smooth, earthy game paté; two slices of off-the-bone ham, which were excellent; and two thin crescents of pork aspic.

The menu also lists dishes that are "good with beer," but in truth, all of the starters (and the mains, for that matter) are perfect complements to the liquid gold.

Apart from the Old Bohemian plate, the traditional svíčková na smetaně really stood out. There were massive amounts of sauce - and top-quality beef. The meaty chunks were pink on the inside and fell apart easily into the sweet-and-savory cream sauce, and the dumplings were fluffy and just right for sponging.

Sirloin stroganoff also excelled, with a rich, creamy sauce filled with well-charred bite-size pieces of beef, along with mushrooms and pickles, which added a welcome tart sweetness to the dusky mix. A tower of white rice sat in the middle, waiting to scoop up the sauce.

One dish that failed to impress, however, was the pork neck, translated incorrectly into English as "pork chop." It was a huge portion, but the meat was tough and riddled with fat and gristle, and while some bites tasted nicely peppery and smoky, the accompanying sauces (garlic, mayo and a chili ketchup concoction) did nothing to complement the flavor. A generous triangle of gratin potatoes verged on decent but was ultimately bland. Three toothpick-skewered plums wrapped in bacon, though, were delicious.

Czech cuisine is hardly diet-friendly, but amid the pork knuckles, goulash and fried schnitzels, Sokolovna does have several salads, two pasta dishes and a salmon steak. The vegetarian options include the standard fried cheese, potatoes baked with chives and goat cheese, and a vegetable omelet.

Sokolovna has a retro-modern feel with sleek wood tables and wood paneling plastered with old newspaper clippings of Sokol members in action. The restaurant is hugely popular, so reservations are recommended for any day of the week. Housed in a building that used to be an actual Sokol meeting point, it's a welcome throwback to the timeless values of solid, friendly service and good, hearty food and drink.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com