America's native spirit

By John and Helena Baker

FOR THE POST

A reception and tasting of locally available American bourbons was held recently at the U.S. ambassador's residence in Prague 6, hosted by Bill Samuels, president of Maker's Mark. The event was under the patronage of the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, as represented by Senior Vice President Frank Coleman.   

A seventh-generation distiller (with the next generation already working in the business), Samuels can claim to belong to the oldest distilling family in the United States. It all began back in 1783, when Robert Samuels began distilling bourbon for family and friends. Commercial production only started in 1840, when the family set up at a place called Factory Depot in Samuels, Kentucky.  

In 1953, Bill Samuels' father, Bill Sr., made an astounding decision. He burned the old family recipe, sold the company along with its trademark and bought a small disused distillery in Loretto, Kentucky. Most neighbors thought he was crazy or pulling some sort of stunt, but Bill Sr. had in mind a complete renewal of the product, especially the removal of the bourbon's bitter edge, so prevalent until then, to convert bourbon into the refined tipple we know today. After much experimentation, Bill Sr. replaced all the rye with barley and winter wheat. He named the distillery Maker's Mark. It would take some time for Bill Sr. to make his mark, however.

In 1980, The Wall Street Journal ran a front-page article on Maker's Mark. The Samuels family never looked back, and Maker's Mark is now seen as one of the benchmarks of quality bourbon. 

"America's Native Spirit," as bourbon is legally recognised, can be made just about anywhere in the United States, though in practice distillers have most often set up around Kentucky. By law, a bourbon has to be made using a grain mixture containing a minimum of 51 percent corn distilled twice and matured at least two years. The distillation time is usually much longer, however. 

Tennessee whiskey is made under the same guidelines, though it is filtered through charcoal made from the sugar-maple tree, resulting in a softer, drier taste profile than that of Kentucky bourbons. Only two distilleries are left in Tennessee: George Dickel and the legendary Jack Daniels. 

What distinguishes bourbon from other similar spirits like Scotch? First, Scotch whisky is produced from a base of barley, not corn, but, as Bill Samuels says, the real secret is in the new charred barrels made from American white oak. These impart a vanilla or caramel tone, which is noticeable in both its aroma and color. By law, these barrels may no longer be used for bourbon after a single use. Luckily, a good many distillers of Scotch and Irish whiskey buy used casks to mature their own products, so there might be traces of whiskey in your favorite Scotch.

Winery of the month: Vinařství Ševela 

At first sight, the attractive south Moravian village of Brumovice near Kobylí in the Velké Pavlovice wine region appears to be the place time forgot. Where are all those winemakers who have grown famous and prosperous during the boom of the past decade, as has happened in nearly all other south Moravian villages? But all is not lost; there is a voluntary grouping of no fewer than 26 small vintners in the vicinity. The principal driving force behind this is a relative newcomer to the wine scene: a thirtysomething wine enthusiast named František Ševela who began making wine only two years ago but is determined to put the place on the map. With his 2.5 hectares of vines, his aim is to make fresh wines reflecting traditional varietal characteristics. The winery is located in a typical family cellar that has been technologically refurbished and is ready to receive groups for pre-arranged tutored tastings of wines from a full range of local varieties. (Vinarstvi-sevela.cz)

Wines of the month:

White: Irsay Oliver 1995

Producer: Znovín Znojmo a.s., Czech Republic

The oldie from the archives appears a very deep gold, due to its age. The pronounced nose is exotic and grapey. It is surprisingly spritely on the palate, with a full forward attack, something older wines seldom manage. This wine was the first to meet the difficult challenge of being paired with traditional Czech Christmas carp and potato salad (advice given by colleague wine afficionado Dr. Martin Křístek after many years of experimentation). A younger vintage is a good alternative. (120 Kč or more, depending on the vintage. Znovin.cz)

Red: Campo del Drago, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003

Producer: Castiglion del Bosco

From the renowned Tuscan region of Italy, this fine wine has a beautiful deep crimson shade with a smooth floral bouquet accompanied by hints of fresh pencil sharpenings. The palate leads off with ripe mulberry fruit, and moves through morello cherry and chocolate, ending on a note of tobacco. Tannins are supple, and the overall structure is close to perfect. Recommended for seasonal goose or Christmas roasts cooked in wine of the same provenance. (2,100 Kč from Bacchus.cz)

Events diary

The Terra Vina vinotéka at Dlouhá 6 in Old Town offers two tastings in keeping with the festive season. Dec. 13 will feature Champagne and Crémants. This will be followed by a further sampling of the same wines with a celebratory menu Dec. 20. Each tasting begins at 6:30.  (Terravina.cz)

The writers can be reached at features@praguepost.com