Fruit of the vine

Wine grapes were introduced to south Moravia by Roman legions during the reign of Emperor Probus in the third century A.D. Winemaking has continued since then, although the communist regime did much to ruin the quality of Moravian wine. The regime did not, however, interfere with the tradition of domestic production, whereby most families owned their own facilities to make enough wine for their own needs - which were often quite substantial.

In these days of booming local production, however, a great deal of money is pouring into the coffers of a growing number of large wine producers. Stainless steel, temperature-controlled fermentation and French-oak barrels are the norm. While it is undisputable that wine quality has improved enormously during the past decade, standardisation has taken hold and much of the soul has gone out of the end product.

About 10 years ago, Bogdan Trojak came up with the idea of producing his own "authentic" wine the same way small south Moravian winemakers had always done. With his family, he moved from Český Těšín on the Polish border to the village of Bořetice in the heart of the south Moravian wine region. Trojak is also a renowned poet, and he energetically set about recreating the atmosphere of the Central European lands that were once encompassed by Austro-Hungarian hegemony.

Several other small Moravian wine producers have since joined the Authentist grouping, including Richard Stávek, holder of the special prize for a natural approach to winemaking at this year's Winemaker of the Year competition. Stávek, too, is fiercely committed to making non-technological wine, and is better known as editor of the Czech Republic's oenological journal, Vinařský obzor (Vintners' Horizon). Based in the village of Němčičky, where much to his displeasure, some ancient vineyards have recently been sold to make way for ugly modern housing, he works his few acres of vines, while farming organic vegetables and raising goats.

Prior to World War II, all agriculture was essentially organic. Technological aids for winemaking in all but the most advanced nations were limited to the tractor, while processing and pressing were done by hand and underfoot. Manure was added to the land as ecological self-sufficiency was a necessity, not a fad.

Continuing in this vein, Authentists see the vineyard not as an inanimate object ripe for maximum exploitation, but as part of a unified eco-system. Vines are not subjected to the usual array of enzymes, artificial fertilizers and carcinogenic chemical sprays. Of course, vines do need to be treated if they are not to fall prey to such diseases as oidium and peronospora, which regularly attack grapes during the growing season, decimating yields. In such cases, naturally occurring applications like nettle infusion and manure are used. Furthermore, Authentist wines are not filtered and topped up with sulfur to keep them stabilized.

Not wishing to be identified as vinous missionaries engulfed by quasi-religious fervor to take over the world, the Authentists rather prefer seeing themselves simply as "wine freaks" who wish to make wines that are unique. See Veltlin.cz.

Winery of the month: Vinařství Plešingr

Bohuslav Plešingr worked for 40 years as a technician and later a cellarmaster for the state cooperative winery in Hodonín, a stone's throw from the Slovak border. In 1999, he struck out on his own, forming a family winery, along with his two sons, Michal and Patrik. The vinery is headquartered in what was once a dilapidated building on the road between Ratíškovice and Dubňany, in which the grapes are processed and fermented. Significant work has been done upgrading the facilities, a lengthy process that continues to this day. A wide range of grapes are cultivated, with pride of place going to wines from the best Sylvaner, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir grapes. Production currently stands at around a quarter million liters from 2.5 family-owned hectares, and the remaining grapes are bought in from reliable growers.

The company has its own wine shop in Hodonín, where tastings can also be arranged. Wines are priced at between 50 and 500 Kč. For more info, visit Vinarstviplesingr.cz.

Wines of the month

White: Sprasz 2008, Grüner Veltliner

Producer: Bogdan Trojak, Authentist, Bořetice, south Moravia

Sprasz is Polish for loess, the soil type in the Čtvrtě vineyard from which this interesting sample emanates. The wine has a very forward nose with a fragrant combination of marigold and apples at the fore. On the back of the tongue, one notes a highly pronounced grapefruity tang, at once lush and powerful. Decanting is recommended for all the "authentic" wines, including the whites. Zingy and zesty with a wonderful complexity - a treat! (200 Kč)

Red: Špigle, 2006

Producer: Richard Stávek, Authentist, Němčičky, South Moravia

This wine, produced in a tiny volume, is a blend of Zweigeltrebe and Lemberger (Frankovka in Czech), and named after the vineyard tract where it was lovingly raised. Deep garnet to the eye, the wine has a fragrant nose reminsicent of forest fruit and plum jam and with a touch of earthiness. A good attack on the palate, which is vibrant and fruity. Very keenly balanced with a nice long finish. (250 Kč)

Events diary

The world's oldest gastronomic society, the Chaine de Rotisseurs, or French Guild of Royal Goose Roasters, whose origins can be traced back to 1248, has a Prague Chapter that regularly holds fine wining and dining events in top Prague restaurants. On Oct. 8 at 7, the setting will be Brasserie La Gare at V Celnici 3, Prague 1, where executive chef Pavel Veltruský (formerly of the nearby Marriott and Renaissance hotels) will prepare a one-off menu with paired wines for the special price of 1,250 Kč for members and 1,500 Kč for nonmembers. Come along and enjoy the fun. Booking is required. For more info, e-mail nigel@chaine.cz.

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com