Aged to perfection

By John & Helena Baker

FOR THE POST

Although primarily known as a center for beer production, Prague is without a doubt the main market for wine in the Czech Republic and, as such, deserves all the attention the wine industry affords it, including the annual Prague Wine Festival.

It is a little-known fact that Prague has a fine vinous tradition going back to the ninth century and peaking during the 14th century, when Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV founded  numerous vineyards and drew up rules and regulations for their upkeep in such places as Vinohrady (the name itself gives this fact away). Although most of the rows of vines in Prague were later converted into orchards and the like, and more recently turned over to housing developments, vineyards today manage to thrive in such diverse locations as Modřany, Troja, Vysočany, Vyšehrad, Gröbovka in Havlíčkovy sady and the small but newly restored Svatováclavská vinice in the area around Villa Richter overlooking the Old Castle Stairs that wind their way up to Prague Castle. And let us not ignore other small private plantations in Hanspaulka, Košíře and right in the city center in the Franciscan Gardens between Wenceslas Square and Jungmannova.

This year's Prague Wine Festival will host about 50 exhibitors of one sort or another. Stands laden with wines naturally take pride of place, with Moravian producers providing the predominant presence. Among those who will be participating is the renowned winery Vinselekt Michlovský, with its extensive and varied range, run by Miloš Michlovský, a much-cherished and larger-than-life character, who also runs an experimental wine-research establishment in Perná, near Mikulov, which has produced numerous new grape crossings aimed at creating vines that will be better suited to the sometimes harsh climate of Central Europe. This winery was named Winery of the Year in 2009 in a competition run by the Czech Union of Winemakers.

Znovín Znojmo, another of the high-quality producers from Moravia, will also be in attendance at the festival, as will other notable wineries large, medium and small that have been featured in this column over the years. These include Stapleton-Springer Winery, the joint venture of Craig Stapleton, former U.S. ambassador to the Czech Republic and the Moravian Jaroslav Springer; as well as Vinařství Spielberg, Maděřič, Vinné sklepy Lechovice and Petr Skoupil. Other excellent companies that will be there include Šlechtitelská stanice of Velké Pavlovice, Mikrosvín, Vinařství Čech (formerly Čebav), Tanzberg, Vyskočil, Ampelos, Petra Brázdová and ZD Sedlec, whose cellarmaster Ctirad Králík doubles as a bard and may be on hand to render his wines all the more poetic. 

In addition, some of Prague's most important sales outlets will have their selections available for sampling, as will several importers. Wines will come from such places as Italy, South and North America, Australia, Mexico and Spain, as well as neighboring countries like Austria, Germany, Hungary and Slovakia. France will boast wines brought in by the Languedoc company and also many of the top names from Champagne, represented by the aptly named Champagne Shop.    

On each of the three days, there will be three tutored tastings featuring champagne and sparkling wine; sweet delights in the form of ice and straw wines; and cognac and armagnac. Various other seminars will take place over the course of the festival, along with a number of localized presentations and tastings.

It is only fitting that some of Prague's best restaurants, like Bellevue, Pálffy Palác and the Jan Paukert delicatessen, will be on hand to keep the taste buds happy, as will Cheesy, purveyors of cheeses from around the world.

Meanwhile, there is a full musical program, including Moravian folk music in the form of the Ladislav Pavluš dulcimer band, which will provide traditional accompaniment to the proceedings, as will "the Queen of Wallachia" Jarmila Šuláková and her band, Fleret. The popular singer Anna K. will also be performing.

Finally, there will be an exhibition of folk arts and crafts, an auction of wines and a competition for the best wine judged by the visitors to the festival. Refreshments will be available as will a free playground area together with a program for children. On the whole, the festival will provide a great deal of fun for the entire family.

The opening ceremony takes place Friday, Sept. 17, at 2, with proceedings continuing until 11 p.m. Doors will be open between 10 a.m. and 10 p.m. on the two other days. The basic ticket will gain the holder entrance on all three days, and a specially inscribed tasting glass and festival program. Tickets for specific tastings and samplings are sold separately. Wine and food can be purchased using special chips, available throughout the premises.

The writers can be reached at features@praguepost.com