Summer swan song

By Claire Compton and Fiona Gaze

Staff Writers

The clock is ticking. School supplies are being slipped into displays, and the days are shortening. Seasonally ignorant friends are piping up about how much they love fall and can't wait to go scarf shopping. Whether you're in your element in mid-July or late October, one thing that goes perfectly somewhere in between is enjoying your meal al fresco. Summer parties at hotels are winding up in late August and early September, and restaurants will keep tables out for as long as it's feasible.

Here's a brief roundup, by category, of bars, restaurants and cafés with great outdoor seats. For a longer list, look for The Prague Post's Outdoor Dining Guide at newsstands.

Pubs and Beer Gardens

Kaštan Order beers from a window and relax in the garden of this hip multicultural center close to the Břevnov Monastery. Bělohorská 150, Prague 6-Břevnov. Tel. 233 353 020. Open noon-10 p.m.

O2 Former public toilets turned into a beer hut on a busy corner? What's not to love? Lounge on the shady rooftop deck and watch the world go by. Corner of Karlovo náměstí and Žitná. No telephone. Open midafternoon to late.

Letná Beer Garden Arguably Prague's best beer garden. Shady picnic tables, amazing views over the city. Pilsner and Gambrinus on tap, sausages and the like to keep you going. Letná Park, Prague 7-Letná. No telephone.

U Sadů U Sadu's got it all: surprisingly flavorful and cheap food, quickly replenished beers and lots of seating on a cute, residential square (well, circle) a block from the TV Tower and Palác Akropolis. Škroupovo nám. 5, Prague 3-Žižkov. Tel. 222 727 072. Open Sun.-Wed. 8 a.m.-2 a.m., Thurs.-Sat. 8 a.m.-4 a.m.

Mlýnska Kavárna An idyllic spot tucked into a corner of lush Kampa Park right along the river. Look for the water wheel and cross the little bridge to this restored mill cum café-gallery-pub. Všehrdova 14, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 608 444 490. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight.

Cafes, Wine and Cocktail Bars

Týnská literární kavárna This literary café feels worlds away from the tourist mobs of Old Town Square, just a few steps away. Service can drag, but the hum of the courtyard patio makes it worth the wait. Týnská 6, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 224 827 807. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.-Sun. noon-11 p.m.

Adria The spacious terrace of this elegant kavárna looks out over Jungmannovo náměstí. Come for the lunch specials and stay for coffee or a few drinks. Národní 40/36 Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 224 948 039. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-11 p.m.

Mlékarná Perched on the hill of this park bordering Vinohrady and Žižkov, this little café and pub squeezes lots of seating under the chestnut trees and on the roof. Riegrovy sady, Prague 2-Vinohrady. No telephone. Open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

French Institute Institut Francais is first and foremost a library and cultural center. But there's also this great little café, with freshly brewed coffee, hot dishes, pastries and a peaceful courtyard. Stěpánská 35, Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 221 401 011. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

Casual Dining

Baretta An eclectically decorated pizza-and-pasta place that also has an extensive list of coffees, including frappes and cocktails at the café next door. Lots of tables out back. Belehradská 4, Prague 4-Nusle. Tel. 261 215 622. Open Mon.-Fri. 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. noon-11 p.m.

Cafe de Paris Don't be put off by the small menu - there within lies a platter fit for heaven, the beef entrecote, pommes frites and salad combo made famous by Geneva's same-named locale. Maltézské nam. 4, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 603 160 718. Open daily noon.-midnight.

Gate Everything from noteworthy burgers to salads and steaks at this buzzing, chic eatery. Snag one of the street-side tables for maximum enjoyment. Sokolovská 31, Prague 8-Karlín. Tel. 224 815 305. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. noon-1 a.m., Sun. noon-midnight.

Indian Jewel Arguably some of the best Indian food in town, and it should be, for these prices. Above-standard service and a cozy patio lit by lanterns right on Týn Square. Týn 6, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 222 310 156. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Luka Lu Hearty meat platters, seafood dishes and satisfying starters all prepared home-style. The casual feel carries from the sidewalk patio through the dining rooms. A friendly place. Újezd 33, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 257 212 388. Open daily 10 a.m.-11 p.m.

Fine Dining

Ada This innovative restaurant in a boutique hotel has a lovely garden. Half is sheltered, providing shade, and the rest is perfect for soaking up the sun. Pod Bruskou 7 (inside Hotel Hoffmeister), Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 251 017 133. Open daily noon-3 p.m., 6-11 p.m.

The Garden at Kempinski Gourmet sandwiches, salads and other appetizing light bites and desserts from the talent behind Le Grill. An oasis of green a stone's throw from the Powder Tower. Hybernská 12, Prague 1-New Town. Tel. 226 226 111. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m.

Kampa Park The flagship restaurant of the Kampa Group has a longstanding reputation for both its culinary achievements and its incredible views over the river. Na Kampě 8b, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 257 532 685. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m.

Il Giardino Travel by cable car to this restaurant, located near Mozart's lodging. Relax above the city and enjoy the views. Mozartova 1 (inside the Mövenpick Hotel), Prague 5-Smíchov. Tel. 257 154 262. Open 5:30-11 a.m., 6-10:30 p.m.

Pálffy Palace A longtime frontrunner for upscale dining in Prague, with an elegant terrace and unbeatable views over the Lesser Quarter. Valdštejnská 14, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 257 530 522. Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Villa Richter A rotating menu depends on what's freshest on a given day - meaning innovative French dishes to savor outside this 19th-century villa on the steps to Prague Castle. Staré zámecké schody 6, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 257 219 079. Open daily 10 a.m.-11 p.m.

Claire Compton and Fiona Gaze can be reached at features@praguepost.com