Tasty little secret

Even the swankiest sushi spots in Prague miss the point. Besides the fish, the temperature and seasoning of the rice, it's the exchange between chef and customer that's missing in most, if not all, sushi restaurants in Prague.

The traditional seating arrangement has the diner on a stool in front of a counter of fish cuts, behind which the sushi chef expertly prepares small dishes. This is not merely an arrangement that purists seek out; it's the one that best benefits sushi novices. The chef can show and prepare small bites of what's fresh and best that day.

Instead, we have picture-book menus and conveyor belts that turn the unique dialogue into a game of telephone. Case in point: The server at Susharna was unable to tell us what sort of fish was being presented as a "gift from the chef." Turns out it was butterfish, but he had to run back to the kitchen to find out.

Traditional seating arrangements aside, Susharna offers a cozy setup in a location that makes you feel like you're in on a secret. The small, narrow room is flanked on both sides by a row of booths, with a small sushi kitchen in back that's visible to diners. The restaurant itself is tucked away on a small side street in Malá Strana, though a busy one as it hosts the U.S., German and Irish embassies.

The picture-book menu is nicely photographed and laid out, and carries a tantalizing array of starters, sushi and main courses - thoroughly Japanese yakitoris, teriyakis, soba and udon, all of which come under the 200 Kč mark.

Even for the steep price of 145 Kč, the simple pleasure of Edamame was too tempting to pass up. A moderate portion of slightly overdone peas came out almost immediately. Harukame, sliced egg rolls with two dipping sauces, was a better deal at 105 Kč. Three fresh rolls had been sliced and presented next to a spicy mayonnaise and creamy mustard sauce flecked with black sesame seeds.  

Wakame seaweed salad was a humble dish of sliced cucumbers and seaweed, dressed simply with a light vinaigrette.

To gauge the quality of the fish on offer, a selection of nigiri pieces was chosen, for prices ranging from 80 to 120 Kč. The best of the lot was butterfish, taking after its namesake in consistency without erring on the side of mushy, and carrying a clear, sweet flavor devoid of fishiness. Bright tuna was good, but not fantastic, and surf clam was dry and chewy, not an easy bite. Mackerel, for those who like a stronger flavor, was oily and rich with a strip of skin. Unago (grilled eel) was flaky and fresh with a sweet glaze.

Susharna's maki, or rolled sushi, veers into creative lanes that might make purists squirm, but are nevertheless well-executed and fun to taste.

Two rolls were chosen for their kitsch: the volcano roll and what was essentially a fried calamari roll. The volcano consisted of a tiered presentation of a simple roll of raw scallop, which was generously sprinkled with even more cubes of scallop. The flesh was sweet and tender, and contrasted nicely with small roe that popped between the teeth. A thinned, barely spicy mayonnaise stood in for lava.

For the raw fish-averse at the table, the Maki Thai, a tempura squid inside-out roll with sweet chili sauce, was an accessible favorite. The flavors weren't very adventurous, but provided a crunchy, sweet and chewy bite.

While the Hirekatzu might appear to the wary Prague diner as gussied-up pork schnitzel, be assured this is a beloved Japanese dish, and Susharna does it justice. The pork itself was lean and tender, and coated with panko crumbs before being deep-fried. The slices were topped with toasted black sesame seeds and a drizzling of a complex plum sauce that didn't overpower.  

Service was eager to please, perhaps overly so at times, but that's a sin easily forgiven. The staff seem to be happy working there, and are genuinely curious about diners' reactions and feelings.

The dessert menu is not to be missed. A Kushi mango looks like a mock salmon roe roll, with thick leaves standing in as seaweed to serve as a small container for syrupy chopped mango atop sticky rice imbued with coconut.

The sushi and meals are of such even quality at Susharna, it's easy to forgive the Westernized seating. That, and the tongue-in-cheek name, seem to be the only deviations from solid Japanese cuisine, which is a lovely surprise for great prices in a tony location.

Claire Compton can be reached at
ccompton@praguepost.com