Ahead of the curve

Considering how the popularity of farmers' markets has skyrocketed in Prague the past few months, with more and more districts scrambling to get in on the trend by opening their own, it was only a matter of time before a restaurant opened on the premise of offering locally produced foods.

This is the mission of Touch Restaurace & Lounge in Old Town, and it succeeds with a healthy, poultry-focused menu described as "feathery." There are a few obviously nonlocal ingredients, such as oyster sauce and coconut milk, but they add zest and splash to many dishes.

One of the most pleasant surprises about Touch is the prices and what you get for them: artfully presented and innovative, original dishes that taste fresh. The menu stings on the drinks prices, though, but that's understandable given the location (right beyond Týn Square). And as most of the dishes are priced under 200 Kč, the cost still works out to be a better deal than many other options in the area.

The kitchen cooks with confidence and creativity, which is a refreshing change. The awareness, much less capability, to offer tasty, healthy meals is a trait sorely lacking in Prague, so it's nice to be reminded that eating well doesn't have to mean eating blandly.

The Thai chicken soup, for example, is super-zesty. Coconut milk masks a good level of spice, and chunks of chicken and basil leaves round it out into a satisfying starter. Mozzarella with cherry tomatoes features the basil leaves, and the balsamic reduction is tart and salty, balancing out the sweetness of the cheese and the juicy fruit.    

It's hard to say which entree sampled was best: Each had its own memorable personality. Chicken stuffed with bulgur and almonds is light and summery, the stuffing adding a buttery flavor to the grilled breasts, served atop fluffy couscous with an intriguing watercress sauce.

The ginger-marinated duck breast is a healthy variation of the Czech staple meat, and the cut is lean and juicy. The marinade infused the duck with an added kick and sweetness but had cooked down enough to not be too cloying. A generous square of gratinated potatoes was creamy and cheesy and a perfect side, making for a comforting meal.

There's something about all the "feathery" meat at Touch: It bursts with über-freshness. Ostrich steak, the most expensive item on the menu at 349 Kč, is huge, and was served precisely as ordered - rare. Blood and juices oozed from the bouncy cut, and the dollop of tarragon butter on top was all the clothes it needed. A paper-thin patty of "roast" potatoes were like upscale hash browns, and the discs of grill-marked eggplant and zucchini added a rustic touch of color and vegetable meatiness.

Chicken "chow mein" noodles exceeded expectations: They were tender and interspersed with crunchy slivers of cabbage and carrot, and the oyster sauce used was not overwhelmingly salty but light.

It's a shame that, on two recent visits, the restaurant was largely empty despite being on such a trafficked route. Apart from not having outdoor seating, it's an inviting enough place: sleek, modern booths and Formica tables, arty black-and-white photographs and everything in red, black and cream, making it chic but not sterile. Management would do well to open the glass window that takes up most of the front, as there's no air-conditioning indoors and a welcome breeze would make the atmosphere perfect for a summer's eve.

Chill-out lounge music is pumped out loud enough to compensate for the lack of a din of other customers, and the staff were eager and attentive, lending a personal touch. That all changed, however, when another table walked in: Attention quickly shifted to them while my friend and I waited 15 minutes for a slice of cake that had been selected from the glass display case right next to our table.

In its defense, the cake arrived nicely presented, with whipped cream and drizzled strawberry sauce, although it was little more than dressed-up sheet cake topped dryly with a layer of meringue. The oddness was at least compensated for by size - definitely a portion to share.

The concept behind Touch is ahead of the curve in Prague, and more restaurants will surely follow suit in catering to the locavore movement. The friendliness, palate of tastes and prices of the place definitely add a special touch. Only time will tell whether that touch is Midas.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com