Gastronomy for the masses

Even though it has long enjoyed a solid reputation backed by Grand Restaurant status, dining at Červená tabulka is still a pleasant surprise. Following a growing trend, the restaurant rotates its international menu - full of Continental influences and high-quality imported ingredients -by season. The spring selection currently on offer is full of refreshing indulgences that highlight the kitchen's justifiable confidence, and continue its winning combination of upscale yet approachable creations.

Located just a stone's throw from náměstí Republiky, Červená tabulka feels hidden; its lush courtyard of outdoor seating and shabby-chic rooms are worth a visit in and of themselves. Plants and potted flowers vie for space with colorful knickknacks, while lamps disguised as tiny windows lend a warm glow to whimsical walls inspired by the painter Kamil Lhoták.

The service likewise is simultaneously top-notch and laid-back. On a recent set of visits, the staff was slightly more attentive when we had reservations, though this may have been a coincidence. But overall they were genuinely nice, taking the time to explain options and offer light-hearted banter. Červená tabulka even has a selection of reading glasses perched next to the pile of menus, and the kitchen is happy to accommodate specific dietary needs.

Attention to detail is one of the restaurant's hallmarks. While waiting for the first course, extra-virgin olive oil from Umbria was brought to the table, along with crusty baguette slices and an herbed, garlicky whipped butter. Even the cheapest wine by the glass (house white, 55 Kč) was good, presenting a rich floral bouquet with a light finish. The background music is muted and familiar, looping French classics and soulful American love ballads.

But it's with the starters that one gets the first serious indication of how good Červená tabulka really is. Chicken liver paté, for example, was served with "marmalade gnocchi" and marinated herbs, all on top of a lightly toasted triangle of bread. The paté was smooth and pleasantly textured, without any hint of off-putting grittiness often found in liver. And it tastes a lot pricier than it actually costs (125 Kč), with a tacky, rustic flavor that pairs expertly with the homemade marmalade (not too sweet) and the marinated plums (small nuggets of tartness).

The tiger shrimp starter took an even more creative approach: The shrimp were sliced razor-thin and "gratinated" into almost an omelet with a sweet coriander (or cilantro, as Americans call it) sauce, topped with rucola covered in a nutty, creamy vinaigrette and surrounded by patches of chopped walnuts and slices of mandarin orange. The overall effect was very sweet, almost sickly so, though that may have been because we paired it with a Caesar salad, and the two salad elements were not complementary.

But the Caesar, served with chicken, is as close an approximation to the real thing as can be found in Prague. Červená tabulka does not shy away from garlic, and knows how to put it to use without completely overwhelming. The creamy Caesar dressing that coats fresh romaine is peppery and garlicky on all the right fronts. A generous amount of grilled chicken tops the lot, with homemade croutons and two halves of a cold, poached egg that oozes yolk into the salad when split with a fork. It's a surprisingly satisfying portion, especially for the price of only 180 Kč.

Mains continue to impress. The seasonal accents of the menu infuse each dish with a lightness, and the kitchen makes the most of even heavy ingredients like potatoes. Veal rib-eye steak, for example, looks at first like a heart attack on a plate, served in a breaded crust and seemingly swimming in Béarnaise sauce. But the breading is light, and the sweet veal melts in the mouth, with each bite inevitably dipping into the Béarnaise, which was whipped into an airy, fragrant foam. Hidden beneath the veal is a bread pudding of new potatoes, which soak up the remaining foam and add a range of texture. Fresh stalks of white and green asparagus top off the dish, providing a bitter kick.

The presentation of all the dishes is worth marveling at for the short second you can hold back from tucking in. The pan-fried sea bass fillet comes topped with curled, grilled tiger shrimp, and is set atop fat, saffron-infused spaghetti and an olive-tomato salsa and herb sauce, good pairings that bring out the fish's delicate taste and the smokiness of the grill.

Just as much thought goes into dessert. The Belgian chocolate soufflé is exquisite: cakey on the outside, with rich, warm innards that ooze out to mingle with a warm strawberry compote. On the other side of the plate, fresh strawberry slices await under shaved ice, offering a contrasting warmth and coolness that refreshes the palate.

The food at Červená tabulka is as innovative and tasty as you'll find at comparable upscale establishments in Prague. And the prices are remarkably reasonable - a recent meal of two courses, wine and water for two people cost 1,050 Kč. That makes a high level of gastronomy affordable for the masses. And the comfortable, cozy space makes you vow to return.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com