More than Chianti

Between Feb. 19 and 22, the quaint little Tuscan town of Montalcino, some 100 kilometers (70 miles) to the south of the capital Florence, came alive with "Benvenuto Brunello," the annual mega-tasting of newly released vintages of local wines. More than 100 producers were on hand to see their wines premiered in the hall of the medieval fortress perched on the hill overlooking the town.  

The wines on show were the Brunello 2005, officially proclaimed a four-star vintage, the Riserva 2004 and the youthful Rosso di Montalcino 2008. The event is organized by the local Consorzio and followed two similar shows that had already taken place in Chicago and New York.

Tuscany provides the ideal Italian image for many a tourist, with endless rolling hills, olive groves, wonderful food and the unending vineyards that provide the contents of those squat, straw-covered bottles, known as Fiaschi, that have actually done so much to keep the quality of basic-level Chianti at rock bottom.

Of all famed Italian reds, this is the most youthful, having been invented, named and first bottled single-handedly by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi in the late 19th century. Wines are made exclusively from Sangiovese, the local strain of which is known as Brunello. As this specific part of Tuscany is drier than the rest of the region, it reaches maximum ripeness. The wines are richer and fuller-bodied than other Chiantis, fruity reds that outlive examples of this variety from anywhere else.  

The regulations for these wines of controlled and guaranteed origin (DOCG, Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) were written primarily by the descendants of Biondi-Santi, and stipulate a minimum of four years aging - 36 months in barrel and another 12 in bottle - which in poorer years can be a long time to have wine sitting about doing nothing but aging. This financial burden is compensated for by the existence of a secondary DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) created for a similar but relatively simple red wine, Rosso di Montalcino, that can be sold in the year following the vintage.

The Biondi-Santis remained the only commercial producers in the area until after World War II.  By 1970, there were still only 25 of them. However, this changed in the late 1980s, when Brunello di Montalcino was discovered as Tuscany's answer to such grand Italian wines as Barolo from Piemonte. This was due primarily to the outstanding efforts of Ezio Rivella, then-oenologist at Castello Banfi, a new property owned by the Mariani brothers of New York, who were keen on making their own mark on the Italian winemaking scene. Now there are more than 250 producers here, including such icons as Angelo Gaja and Piero Antinori, all eager to produce wine in this totally revitalized zone.      

Winery of the month

Vojtěch Jestřáb, Dubňany  

The town of Dubňany lies amid the oak forests in south Moravia. Small-scale winemaking runs in the blood of many locals, including Vojtěch Jestřáb, who first began making wine commercially in 1999, on a single hectare of vineyard, assisted by his wife and son. The Jestřáb winery is in Vojtěch's home on Dubňany's main road. Wines are produced from a total of 18 different grape varieties, the most favored being the excellent white Hibernal and red Cabernet Moravia (a notoriously finicky grape to get right). A source of pride is that, for the first time, Jestřáb had a wine selected for this year's representative exhibition in the National Wine Salon in Valtice. Small groups are welcome by arrangement (Vinarstvi-jestrab.cz).     

Wines of the month   

White: Rocbere Blanc 2009, AOC Corbieres    

Producer: Les Caves de Rocbere, Portel des Corbieres, southwest France  

Under the Corbieres appellation, one usually expects a hearty red, but this wine is white.  Fruity and dry, it appears pale straw to the eye. The seemingly neutral nose is initially restrained, prior to opening out into tones of minerality, with exceedingly fine primary aromas. The palate is full with forward fruit: peaches and apricots, plus a good touch of citrus for good measure. Refreshingly zesty, mouth-pleasing and rounded. Made with grapes from Grenache Blanc and Rolle, both of Mediterranean origin. Available at the TerraVina French wine shop and wine bar, Dlouhá 6, Prague 1. (125 Kč)  

Red: Cabernet Moravia Barrique 2008    

Producer: Vojtěch Jestřáb, Dubňany, south Moravia

Cabernet Moravia is a new variety, crossed from Cabernet Franc and Zweigeltrebe, developed by Lubomír Glos in Moravská Nová Ves, that has proved a popular Cabernet-type grape well suited to Moravian growing conditions. This example has a deep-knitted ruby hue, an elegant nose of forest fruit laced with a typical (for this variety) pepperiness. The wine has spent 14 months in French oak barrels. It is nicely balanced, exhibiting a fine acidity that affords a light and perfect drinkability for even the most exigent customer.  (199 Kč from Vinařský dům Dubňany)        

Events diary  

This year will be the sixth for Czech wines showing in Slaný, Žernosecký košt and the Mělník Wine Fest. This trio of wine exhibitions and public tastings all take place May 15, in key wine areas of the Czech lands not far from Prague. For more information, contact vinarstvi.kvic@seznam.cz, ouzernozecky@iol.cz or d.chocholaty@winefest.cz.  

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com