Moldova moves forward

Totally landlocked and largely dependent on agriculture, Moldova is one of the poorer, if not the poorest, countries in Europe. Despite its economic woes, the country's picturesque countryside and colorfully painted houses charm visitors, just as its wines do.

Moldova has a fine vinous tradition stretching back into prehistory. In fact, on the map, Moldova looks like a bunch of grapes squeezed between Ukraine and Romania. And one of its national symbols and trademarks is a bunch of grapes being carried by a flying stork. According to legend, storks helped feed the besieged Moldovans in the fortress at Soroca during a war with the Turks by bringing them grapes.

This tiny nation has been swept back and forth by the tides of history, often disappearing altogether at the whim of greater powers. The Romans knew the region as Dacia. A century ago, it was Bessarabia, which had the largest area under vine in the old Czarist Empire. After several other turns of fate, it was subsumed into the Soviet Union at the end of World War II, from whose depths it only emerged as a sovereign state in 1992.

In the 19th century, many European, mainly French, grape varieties were introduced, which is an advantage, since these are exactly the grapes the world now craves: Sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and merlot have become the mainstay of local production. Native grapes have nevertheless begun to show great potential when vinified to produce premium wines by the new generation of winemakers.

Whites include Feteasca Alba and Feteasca Regala. Reds like Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra are even more promising, the latter only growing around the southern town of Purcari and used for the famous Negru de Purcari wines. In 1878, this wine won the gold medal at the prestigious Paris Exhibition.  It was also regularly on the tables of Russian Emperor Nicholas II and Queen Victoria of England.

Strangely enough, locals drink little of these wines, preferring vodka. Most store offerings come from curious if interesting hybrids such as Isabella and Lidia, wines with a taste strongly reminiscent of wild strawberries.

Moldova has traditionally exported nearly all of its production to Russia, in the form of sweet or semi-sweet products. So it came as a huge blow when, in 2006, as the result of a political spat, Russia banned Moldovan and Georgian wines, killing off this trade at a stroke, leading to an immediate loss of more than 80 million euros. Wineries had unsold stocks so huge they could not move forward, and bankruptcies followed.

The crisis did have the effect of galvanizing the industry. In 2007, seven of the most important modern wineries formed the Moldova Wine Guild, casting themselves as pioneers of the way ahead. Names such as Chateau Vartely, Lion Gri, Acorex and Dionysos-Mereni are making inroads into Western markets. Initiatives like USAID aimed at bringing winemaking and marketing up to scratch have also been under way for some time.

While the way ahead remains tough, it is also full of positives. The newly established Moldovan Small Wine Producers Association, led by the French/Australian trained Costia Stratan, shows promise with labels such as Equinox, Et Cetera or Mezalimpe, which are sure to captivate the discerning wine lover from the West.

So, as Moldovans say when toasting with wine, "Noroc!"

Winery of the month: Vinařství Štěpán Maňák

The Maňák family hails from Žádovice in the district of Kyjov, deep in the folkloric Slovácko subregion. Vines grow on the south-facing slopes of the Chřiby hills, which give protection from the cold north winds. The Maňák's winemaking began in 1991, in a small reconstructed cellar that features on the labels to this day. Production, including a pneumatic press, temperature-controlled stainless-steel fermentation tanks and new French-oak barriques, has long been transferred to a vast ruin of an agricultural hall, which had to be rebuilt virtually from scratch. Administration is undertaken by wife Helena, and son Štěpán graduated from the wine school in Valtice. The Maňák family also runs a thriving fruit-growing business, with 8 hectares of orchard planted with apricots, peaches and morello cherries. And not to be missed is the very special "višňák" cherry wine. For more information, check Vinarstvi-manak.cz   

Wines of the month

White: Terroir Lacerta Viridis, Pinot Blanc 2008

Producer: Znovín Znojmo, Moravia, Czech Republic

Named after the Green Lizard (Lacerta viridis), this wine comes from the Vinohrady Skalka in the village of Krhovice in the Znojmo region, on the meandering River Dyje, the habitat of this rare green lizard, which is found only in places that are ecologically undamaged. The producer is the large quality winery Znovín Znojmo. Pale to the eye, with a sophisticated and ample buttery citrus fruit nose so typical of this variety, the wine evinces a pleasingly crisp palate, both full and round, which ends on a honeyed and almond note. All in all, a very fine drop. 150 Kč. For more info, check Znovin.cz.

Red: Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005

Producer: Chateau Vartely, Orhei, Moldova

This is a wine made with the world's favorite red grape from one of Moldova's dynamic new pioneering concerns. The name Vartely originates in the Hungarian Var, meaning town or castle. It has a deep garnet look, while the nose is very fruity, replete with blackcurrants, sour cherry and blackberries. The 18 months spent in French oak barrels add a touch of vanilla to the wine. And, for the vintage, the wine is not only at its peak but very keenly priced. 260 Kč. For more information, check Vartely.cz.

Events diary

Moravia's main wine fair, VINEX, runs March 2-5. All the best local winemakers are sure to be exhibiting at the giant Výstaviště complex, Veletrh Brno. For more details, check  Salima.cz/vinex.  

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com