Vienna's wine pedigree

Unlike other European capitals that boast vineyards like Paris, Madrid, Lisbon and even Prague, Vienna is a fully recognized wine region of its own with more than 300 vintners and 700 hectares (1,730 acres) of vineyards that plays an important economic role in the life of the city and ensures a good proportion of the urban landscape stays green.  

Winemaking in Vienna has roots going back through history. The Celts knew the region as Vedunia, and the Romans called it Vindobona. Vines were cultivated within the city ramparts up until the Middle Ages, even in the central inhabited parts of the city. Today, they remain in the suburban areas.

Wines begin with the very typical Gemischter Satz, a mix of several grape varieties that are not only planted alongside one another but are all harvested at the same time. White varieties include Grüner Veltliner, which accounts for roughly a quarter of all plantings, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Reds include Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Cabernet Sauvignon.  

There is no better place to try these wines than in a Viennese Heuriger, Heurigen being the plural. The typically charming garden restaurants serve young wines by the glass, jug or bottle - if the wine is ever bottled, for quality was never the watchword - accompanied by traditional Viennese food.  The atmosphere in these establishments ranges from idyllic to hilarious, and most of them claim Beethoven composed at least a concerto in their establishment.   

By law, Heurigen are controlled by the Austrian regional governments as to when and what they can sell. The locals usually know which Heuriger is open on any particular day. This is also shown by a conifer twig hanging above the door to indicate it being open, known in the local jargon as ausg'steckt, or being "hung out."

Heurigen can be found in all the Viennese wine quarters, and indeed in many other wine regions of the country, and form a tradition that dates to the 18th century, when, following a protest by vine growers in the village of Görz, Emperor Josef II introduced a law allowing individuals to sell their own wines and food rather than be forced to sell only those of the noble landlord.  

Although Heuriger is generally thought to mean "this year's wine," the name apparently has its origins in an old-Viennese dialect term, "Hauer," meaning winemaker.

Nowadays, there are a good number of mostly younger wine producers for whom serving wine from the barrel with cold meat and sausages is not enough, but who dedicate themselves to wines of high quality sold in bottle. The fallout from the 1985 wine-doctoring scandal has also increased awareness and given a desire to improve standards so, though greater urbanization has occurred here as elsewhere, rather than the expected decimation of production, several new vineyard plantings have taken place in Vienna.

Winery of the month: Vladimír Drápal

Master clockmaker from Bořivojova 19 in Prague, Vladimír Drápal only began making wine in 2001, having bought a small cellar in the picturesque recreational settlement of Pod Dubňansků Horů, hidden away behind a battery-chicken farm on the road between Dubňany and Mutěnice, the previous year. He came upon this place by chance through his other hobby, pigeon racing, and meeting another local resident, for whom he maintained the clocks used for timing the birds.        

He has one hectare planted with a selection of local varieties, and, every Friday, he heads down the D1 highway to the little cellar, sometimes taking volunteers to help with the harvest and other chores in exchange for a jug of wine or three. Drápal sets Southern France as his quality benchmark and is bringing in technological upgrades.

Contact the wine club opening in January 2010 at Čiklova 23, Prague 4 (five minutes from Vyšehrad metro station).

Wines of the month

Local white: Cuvée Grand Moravia 2006 Blanc "Prezident"

Producer: Petr Cibulka, Lednice, Moravia

More than just a curiosity, this wine made with Hibernal grapes is the brainchild of hotelier and animal breeder Petr Cibulka on 5 hectares of vineyard near his My Hotel in Lednice. Very interesting deep golden straw hue due to its maturation in French oak, nose redolent of ripe peaches or apricots with a touch of panna cotta. The taste is opulent, full, with a slightly nutty flavor and a most elegant finish. Served on the occasion of a visit by Václav Klaus and his wife Lívia; hence the name. Myhotel.cz (350 Kč)   

Foreign red: Heritage - Vin de Prestige - le Plaisir du Vin 2005

Producer: Dr. Dargham Elias Touma, Kab Elias, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

New on the market, this well-structured red comes from vineyards that are 1,000 meters above sea level, using grapes from the Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre varieties. It is deep garnet to the eye, with Rhoney characteristics, a delightful nose of raisins, dates, dried figs and cherries, and is very pleasingly structured and richly aromatic with an intense palate of red fruit. Very harmonious with a long-lasting finish. Well-suited to go with roasts or Lebanese-style mezzes. Kolebkavina.cz (333 Kč)  

Events diary

For Burgundy's vintners, the last weekend in January signals the Fete de la Saint Vincent Tournante, a festival that rotates among the various wine communes of this illustrious region in honor of the winemakers' patron saint. This year's celebrations will take place Jan. 30 and 31 in the famous village of Chassagne-Montrachet, near Beaune, the colorful wine capital of the region. After the official blessing in the church, matters take a festive turn as stalls serving wine throughout the town open up to the public. Fortunately, despite the amount of wine on offer all day, inebriation is never a problem. Revelers come to have a good time, eat local delicacies and perhaps sing a bit. For more details on this year's participation, contact helena@bakerwine.cz or visit Saint-vincent-2010.com.

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com