Bordeaux blends in Bergamo

Centered around Lombardy's Lake Iseo, in the northwest of Italy, is the small and often disregarded wine region of Valcalepio. Here, in the shadow of the Alps, the provincial capital of Bergamo is a thriving modern center, overlooked by its magnificently preserved Upper (also known as Old) Town Alta Citta.

Like Valcalepio, which has long been eclipsed by such wine stars as Franciacorta and Valtellina, the city has spent much of its history under the dominance of one or the other of two more powerful medieval city states: Milan to the west and Venice to the east.

Wine production in Valcalepio appears simple; whites are produced from the two white Pinots - Bianco and Grigio - and Chardonnay. Reds, categorized as Rosso and Rosso Riserva, are made exclusively from grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A lush and sweet passito red is made entirely from the autochthonous grape variety Moscato di Scanzo, which is allowed to dry over the winter on straw beds.

Wine production until recently was mainly for local consumption, though over the past few decades it has begun to find recognition beyond the region. Valcalepio was only awarded DOC, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata, status in 1976. This is an Italian designation of place of origin of the wine, equivalent to the French Appellation d'Origine system.

A voluntary organization, Consorzio Tutela Valcalepio, was established in 1977, not only to promote the local DOC wines but to serve as a guarantee to their quality. The official seal of this body bears an effigy of Bartolomeo Colleoni, a famous Bergamese soldier of fortune who was very active in the power politics of the 15th century, and whose cellars in Grumello del Monte, in the heart of Valcalepio, were known to be well-stocked with local wines.

Returning to the reds; this blend just happens to be the same as the principal red varieties used in classic Bordeaux wines. In 2006, the Paris-based International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) approved this region as the official venue for an international wine competition exclusively featuring Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This contest, called Emozioni dal Mondo, thus allowed Bergamo the extraordinary privilege to announce itself as the official capital of the Bordeaux blend.

This past October, for the competition's fourth year, seven tasting panels, each made up of 10 professional tasters, both foreign and Italian, sat in judgment in the exhibition hall of the Fiera Bergamo. One hundred seventy-one wines from a number of countries participated.

The standard of the entries was exceptionally high with four wines picking up Great Gold medals: two from the Italian Trentino region, one from Veneto, and one from Pfalz in Germany.

For the first time, the Czech Republic was represented, with a 2007 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon from Radomil Baloun of Velké Pavlovice, which was awarded a Press Award, achieving a highly commendable 85 points out of a possible 100.

Winery of the month: Vinařství Petr Skoupil

This is a family winery in Velké Bílovice, whose beginnings date back to 1852, with six employees and 20 hectares (49.5 acres), mostly located on the vineyard tract called Zadní hora. Many of the vines are between 40 and 50 years old. As with nearly all wineries, new investment has led to a huge increase in quality. Among other improvements, the winery has a new pneumatic press, a special selector that allows for the weeding out of the not-so-ripe grapes from the production line and a cathedral of new oak barrels from France.

Annual production is around 350,000 bottles of wine with special attributes. Top of the range is the Exclusive line. Since 2008, owner Petr Skoupil has had a central distribution warehouse in Prague. Wines can be obtained in top restaurants, from selected outlets or directly from the cellar in Velké Bílovice.

In September, Skoupil was named Winemaker of the Year in the annual competition at Dobřichovice castle near Prague for the best collection of wines. Visits to the cellar for up to 12 persons can be arranged, usually conducted by the wonderfully jovial Skoupil himself.

Plans for the immediate future are for a larger tasting center with accommodation. For more information, check out www.skoupil.com.

Wines of the month

White: Huxelrebe Trockenbeerenauslese, 2005

Producer: Weingut Anselmann, Edesheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Evocative of deep straw drifting into gold, this almost viscous sweetie, made using specially selected berries, is lush indeed. This wine still has plenty of life in it considering its age, due to the high extract and bouncy acidity, without which the wine would be cloying. The taste is reminiscent of dried fruit, citrus peel, combined with an overall taste of honey. Ideal for rich desserts or contemplative drinking. (390 Kč/$20)

Red: Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Selection, 2007

Producer: Vinařství Baloun, Velké Pavlovice, Czech Republic

This wine, winner of a Great Gold Medal in Bergamo (see above), comes from the expanding winery belonging to charismatic Moravian winemaker Radek Baloun. A typical nose flush with forest fruit, laced with spices and pepper. These elements follow through onto the taste buds, where they combine pleasingly with silky tannins and a smooth finish. Altogether, an excellent match for game or red meat dishes. (200 Kč)

Events diary

The New Year hangover begins to clear with wine festivals getting into gear, such as the one traditionally held the third weekend of January to honor the local patron of winemaking, Saint Vincent, in Burgundy.

This event takes place in a different venue each year, this time in the southern town of Macon.

For the price of 10 euros ($14/268 Kč), one receives a commemorative glass and some vouchers exchangeable for tasting samples in the numerous caveaux, or tasting points, found throughout the town and the two other participating villages, Chardonnay and Pierreclos. Besides wine, one can sample a variety of regional specialties such as snails, oysters and beef bourguignon. It's a little bit distant, but worth the weekend away, especially if the weather is nice. For info how to get there, please contact the writer. More also from: www.saint-vincent-macon.com.

Helena Baker's wine column appears the first Wednesday of each month.

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com