All that glitters

Prague is no longer the wasteland for exotic cuisine that it once was, and the prospect of a decent curry need not wait for a trip to London's Brick Lane. Numerous curry houses have sprouted up around the capital, and curry-cravers in need of a fix now have options for a range of budgets.

While some of the Indian restaurants around town may better fulfill the beer-absorbing - albeit sometimes heart-stopping - property of curry's requisites, Indian Jewel in Old Town allows for a fuller experience of high-end Indian food.

With its prime location on Týn Square, hiked-up prices are to be expected. But the subtleness of flavors that unfolds in its dishes comes as a pleasant surprise. Indian Jewel's Web site describes it succinctly: "The word 'spice' does not mean hot in Indian cooking, but instead in the thousands of herbs and spices ... enhances the food created by our chefs."

A starter of samosas with minced lamb is perfectly fried; not greasy at all, the pastry instead serves to emphasize the gently herbed meat within, and leaves one looking forward to the mains that await. The entrees look small on arrival, presented in silver bowls on vast plates. However, they prove more than filling - yet don't leave you overstuffed. The Murgh Bhuna Masala, for example, pairs capsicum with a tomato base and chicken so tender it breaks with a fork, giving the traditionally mildly spicy dish a flavor that builds as you eat but doesn't overheat.

Lamb Vindaloo, a dish traditionally hotter than most, puts forward an intense wall of heat but one that allows you to still appreciate the taste of garam masala, cumin, tumeric and coriander, among the many other ingredients.

The price of the curry dishes does not include rice or naan, either (or both) of which are necessary to soak up the sauce and the spiciness. The jasmine rice far exceeds the basmati, offering complementary bites over comparatively bland grains. And the naan is a heavenly baked and buttery balance of crispiness and chewiness that my dining companion said was the best he's had since living in India.

Indian Jewel also knows its way around Tandoori. While common incarnations can be dry and almost cakey, this rendition, offered with jumbo prawns or lobster (when in season), brings to the table a burner of four clay-oven-baked shellfish seasoned just enough to let you taste the muskiness of the flesh without compromising the inundation of spices. The inclusion of a green dipping sauce of yogurt, mint, cilantro, chili and garlic rounds out each mouthful.

Although the prices on the regular menu are quite high, the restaurant offers a daily three-course menu of lunch and dinner specials that is an excellent value. On two visits, the dinner menu (299 Kč) consisted of Murgh Shorba, an Indian chicken soup; Machi Masala, a fish curry with naan and basmati rice; and Kheer, a saffron-flavored rice pudding. Portions were not skimped on for the sake of a set price. The tomato-based soup was rich in nicely stewed vegetables and hints of spice; the fish curry was significantly milder than other curries, not detracting from the flaky hunks of white fish; and the rice pudding served to cleanse the palate with its creaminess, flecked with shaved almonds.

Dishes are brought out with the precision and cordiality that can be expected of both Indian restaurants and high-end dining just off Old Town Square. While service dragged on one visit - explained apologetically as a miscommunication among servers that left us waiting 20 minutes to order our food - it was practically flawless on another night. And the restaurant makes good use of its real estate with a patio lit by multicolored lanterns, perfect for people-watching on the square. The décor inside the arched-ceiling dining room subtly continues the theme: traditional copper cups, colored-glass lanterns, carved wooden chairs.

It's nice to be able, finally, to pick and choose among Indian restaurants in Prague for different budgets, moods and atmospheres. And Indian Jewel is definitely a high-end contender for the best curry in the city.  

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com