Old Town ambience, sans tourists

Whether by accident or humorous intent, one of the books squashed amid the dusty first editions in U Šemíka's dining room library is a Microsoft Word manual.

The fact that the software handbook felt so instantly out-of-place and quickly became a point of conversation is indicative of the rustic, Old World charm U Šemíka has become known for. It's the same ambience that, sadly, eludes many more centrally located establishments around the city. Wedged into a quaint cul-de-sac just below Vyšehrad's fortress walls, on the ground floor of the hotel of the same name, U Šemíka is worth the trek for anyone seeking the feel of Prague's Old Town as it was years ago, without the tourists.

The restaurant's Web site calls it "the pride of the hotel," and, given that local hotel eateries are rarely known for their atmosphere, it certainly is a winner. The interior is defined by high, arched ceilings and stone walls, while the shaded courtyard garden offers diners a chance to take in the chimes of Sts. Peter and Paul Basilica atop the hill.   

As the interior suggests, the culinary output is strictly Czech or otherwise Central European, with a handful of pasta dishes and salads thrown in for good measure. Diners in search of variety and/or nutritional value would be better off elsewhere. Still, there are few dishes here that demand respect, and not just for their hearty, filling qualities.

Unfortunately for non-Czech speakers, the English menu includes some heavily error-ridden translations. My curiosity over a starter called "warm graves with bread" prompted me to order it; minutes later, an order of pork cracklings with a sprinkling of onion and slices of rye bread arrived. Sautéed to a deep brown, these salty pieces of pure fat tasted faintly of bacon, pepper and vinegar, a throwback to the guilty dietary pleasures of yesteryear. The side of onions enhances the cushy flavor of the "graves," particularly when matched with the fresh rye, though they quickly became messy and complicated to eat. A second, less artery-clogging starter, the chilled salmon tartar "steak" with toast, isn't a steak at all, but a mushy mix of rare fish, onions and olive oil that's altogether tasty and pleasant.

While such starters may be an acquired taste, entrees are likely to please a more diverse audience. The best of the bunch was the grilled trout filet with potato and apple slices. When served, the fish, starch and fruit combo looked and seemed a bit bizarre, and was best eaten in forkfuls that included a tiny piece of each ingredient. Surprisingly, the flavors and textures married perfectly together, and were alternately savory and sweet, soft and chewy.

Similarly impressive was the turkey with mushroom ragout and cranberries. The herb-marinated breast is well-peppered on the outside, juicy inside, served atop a pile of mushroom slices. The side of cranberry sauce was more like jelly, and lent little to the dish aside from a dash of sweetness.

Though nothing says Czech pub grub like goulash and dumplings, U Šemíka's version is unfortunately quite iffy. Though a regal name like Vyšehrad suggests greatness, the goulash here is bland, featuring overly salted, tiny pieces of beef stewed in a grease-laden sauce that lacks any depth of flavor. The accompanying dumplings are the standard fluffy, airy discs present only to soak up the gravy.

The small dessert menu comprises mostly different ice cream sundaes and palačinky, the local version of crepes. I opted for the traditional apple strudel. Though the skin was less flaky and a tad chewier than is preferable, the warm, overflowing filling of apple, raisins and cinnamon was simply superb, enhanced by a generous scoop of French vanilla ice cream and dollops of whipped cream.

Service over the course of two visits was generally pleasant, with the exception of the end of the meal, when flagging a waitress for the bill became a surprisingly tedious, time-consuming task.

Though traditional Czech restaurants often get a bad rap, U Šemíka is proof that a trek out of the tourist zone can lead to some pleasant surprises. Michelin-starred dining this is not. But, for pub grub, there's certainly enough quality to warrant a visit.

Curtis Wong can be reached at
cwong@praguepost.com