Groovy gastronomy

Styled in earth tones and industrial-looking furniture, Ultramarin Restaurant & Music Club has both the comfort of a roadside greasy spoon and the refined air of a New York loft. However, the first thing many customers will likely notice from almost every angle are breasts. Currently lining the walls of both upstairs dining rooms are a series of 8x10 paparazzi-style photos of topless or bikini-clad women, some of whom are contorted into yoga-like poses. Others sunbathe absent-mindedly on beaches, seemingly unaware of a voyeuristic shutterbug snapping away.

But don't expect Ultramarin to give Hooters, the popular U.S. chain reportedly set to make its Prague debut this fall, a run for its money. The attitude here is mainly tongue-in-cheek. The establishment is just one example of the restaurant-club hybrid, one of the city's most enduring dining concepts which, based on a number of new entries, is more popular than ever.

This spring saw the opening of Old Town's Fragola, where well-heeled clubgoers boogie to modern remixes of 1970s and '80s tunes beneath a dining room serving up Mediterranean specialties and sushi. And diners have already raved about Holešovice's SaSaZu, a new pan-Asian eatery located in a former meatpacking house as part of the redeveloped River Town Prague, while raving of a different sort takes place at an adjacent split-level club.

Still, it's difficult to gauge what the owners of these establishments take more seriously - the slickness of their dance moves or the finesse of their kitchens. In the case of Ultramarin, the kitchen has a gastronomic reputation to uphold, particularly when it comes to the burgers, which consistently come in at second or third place in citywide polls. With a well-priced menu that includes lots of pleasant late-night snacks alongside vegetarian dishes and a surprisingly tasty selection of Asian-infused specialties, there are plenty of other items worth sampling here, too.  

Though other restaurants' versions get the lion's share of attention around town, Ultramarin's burger certainly holds its own. Save for a number of pleasantly fatty ingredients that would have undoubtedly been staples of the star's late-career diet, the "Elvis King" burger bears no relationship to its namesake but is simply terrific. Served a perfect medium, as ordered, the beef patty was homemade, thick and juicy, topped with crispy bacon and mushroom caps. The sesame-topped bun was also fresh, and the ample amount of shredded cheese was melted just enough to achieve the right level of satisfying gooeyness. Complementing the sandwich perfectly are stewed onions, spread heavy on the bottom half of the bun and nicely tangy and sweet.

Considerably less elaborate, though still tasty, is the chicken burger. In place of the beef patty is a wonderfully tender hunk of grilled chicken with a sweet tomato chutney spread lending the sandwich a Southeast Asian flair. Accompanying both burgers is a nice mix of freshly sliced veggies, including bell peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers, which form a small side salad of sorts, as well as the requisite French fries, which come served the Belgian way (with a cup of mayonnaise for dipping in lieu of ketchup).  

The rest of the offerings comprise many Asian accents that won't win any awards for culinary authenticity but are still quite pleasant and even comparable to dishes served in more exotic restaurants around town. A classic dish that all too often is rendered as limp noodles and a peanut sauce, Ultramarin's Pad Thai is surprisingly vibrant, with a nice mix of veggies and nicely browned, firm tofu. On the other hand, the Thai green curry could be a bit more balanced. The dish has a wonderful depth of flavor in its spicy, coconut milk-laden sauce, but comes with an overwhelming amount of steamed green beans and basil in contrast to a tiny handful of steamed shrimp.

Unfortunately, the menu does include a few misfires, though these could be easily improved. The hummus with pita bread is too heavy on the sesame oil, overpowering the flavor of the chick peas and garlic which form the basis of the dip. On the other hand, the baba ghanoush is superb, a smoky, savory blend of roasted eggplant, lemon and garlic. Unfortunately, the dish comes with just 10 tiny pieces of pita bread, barely enough to finish even half the serving. A request for more bread was accommodated - for an additional price, of course. Though nicely presented, a dessert of chocolate mousse cake turned out to be a fairly standard affair; better options are abundant throughout town.     

Service ranged from casual to merely perfunctory over the course of three visits, though dishes arrived promptly, as did drink refills.

Don't be put off by Ultramarin's restaurant-club status, as the eatery's delicious, colorful food is anything but boring. With its pleasantly un-intimidating atmosphere and huge portion sizes, this is a perfect place for a leisurely lunch or late-night dining with friends.

Curtis Wong can be reached at
cwong@praguepost.com