A cross-cultural crop

On New Year's Eve 2001, former U.S. Ambassador to the Czech Republic Craig Stapleton visited Hotel Hoffmeister for dinner. While there, he sampled a local Pinot Noir from the restaurant's wine list. It hailed from the Springer family winery in Bořetice, Moravia. As a confirmed lover of this grape variety, Stapleton was immediately fascinated and so impressed by the quality, which was quite unique compared with most locally produced wines at the time, that he decided to find out more about its creator.

When an official visit to Moravia was being arranged the following year, Stapleton asked the embassy's manager to include the house of Springer on the agenda. This turned out to be a small family enterprise, not unlike legions of similar street-side cellars in the region. The main difference was the evident ambition of the two brothers, Jaroslav and Pavel, who ran it along with their father.   

It was only after he had left his diplomatic post that Stapleton began to think of taking an active role in the wine business. He and his brother Benjamin, a Connecticut-based attorney, decided that founding their own winery in the Czech Republic would make a sound investment.  

By now Jaroslav Springer had parted ways with the family business, so this offer literally came as a personal lifeline. The Stapletons would finance the purchase of new vineyard tracts and lease them to Jaroslav, who would act, in effect, as the new company's CEO, and oversee the production side. "If you want commercial wines - wines made to meet a certain price - you have the wrong man," Jaroslav told them. "I do not have the genetic makeup to produce something I would not love to drink all evening myself or with friends."  

For the Stapletons, that sentiment made all the difference. They, too, wanted only to be associated with wines that would need no excuses when being tasted in the outside world, which still remains almost totally unaware of the existence of Czech wine production.

Henceforth, the Stapleton & Springer Winery was established, setting this unlikely partnership in motion - the worldly American and the younger, still rough around the ears Moravian. At present, the business comprises a 32-hectare vineyard, which produces around 25,000 bottles annually. The property will expand to about 50 hectares when the new vineyards, called Terasy (Terraces), bear fruit next year.  

Plans are also afoot for Stapleton & Springer, whose wines are already available in the United States and Japan, to take the world stage. For his part, Stapleton has personally taken wines to France, where, perhaps surprisingly, they have been very well-received. Influential wine critics like Jean-Robert Pitte have especially praised the Pinot Noirs. Even Aubert de la Villaine, owner of the Domaine de la Romanée Conti, the most prestigious winery in Burgundy, approved. For more information, check Stapleton-springer.cz.    

Winery of the month: Vinařství Bettina Lobkowicz, Mělník

After a series of legal and other wrangles, the former Zámek Mělník brand has now become the Bettina Lobkowicz Winery. Dating back to at least to 1753, the winery had fallen into disrepair under the communist regime. After the revolution, Bettina Lobkowicz, a native Swiss who was then married to Prince Jiří Lobkowicz, worked tirelessly to revamp it for the production of quality wine that was once associated with the noble environment of Mělník Chateau. Today, eight varieties are cultivated on some 65 hectares of excellent sites around the town. The range starts with České Zemské Víno (Czech Land Wine), formerly known as Ludmila, the white made from Müller-Thurgau and the red from Blauer Portugieser, both now also available in bag-in-box 5-liter format at very reasonable prices. Labín is a light and refreshing "blush" wine, known here as klaret. Top of the range is Pinot Noir, from the grape famously brought to Mělník by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century.  For more info, write to turkovicova@lobkowicz-vinarstvi.cz.

Wines of the month

Red: Poggio ai Falchi, Chianti DOCG 2007

Producer: Fattoria Pogni, Tuscany, Italy

From Marcialla-Certaldo, deep in the part of Tuscany known informally as "Chiantishire," comes this example of classical Sangiovese, with a touch of Canaiolo and Trebbiano varieties added for good measure. It displays a deep, dense ruby hue and a complex multilayered, fruity-floral nose of morello cherries, peonies and violets, with a touch of earthiness and even truffles, flanked by spicy notes dominated by licorice and cloves. The palate is elegant with firm tannins added to a smooth acidity, offering excellent cellaring potential. This lively, chewy wine is perfect to accompany wild boar or a juicy steak. (280 Kč/$15.50)             

White: Tramín červený (Traminer) 2005

Producer: Plamen Nikolov, Polešovice, Moravia

From this Bulgarian national living in the Slovácko subregion of Moravia (and making wines in the tradition passed down to him by his grandfather) comes this interesting Traminer sample, which is deep and slightly pinkish in appearance. It comes with a strong aroma of rose petals and rose water, with a hint of lemon geranium and lavender. The palate is intense and has a tremendous length. (190 Kč)

Events diary  

On Saturday, Aug. 8, the annual tasting of new wines takes place in Mělník, 30 kilometers north of Prague. This celebration of Saint Lawrence (svatý Vavřinec) Day includes wine from many of the local producers, combined with a series of gastronomic delights. With its 413 registered vineyards, Mělník is one of the main wine-making centers in the small Czech wine region, which itself has a mere 721 hectares under vine. Proceedings start at 3 p.m. Check Melnicky-kost.cz for more info.  

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com