Between the sheets

More than anything, Bed Lounge restaurant and bar is a lesson in the power of product placement.

Given  the restaurant's prominent location just off Old Town Square, it's safe to say that most patrons will likely be international tourists, who may have bypassed the city's other global concept eateries such as the Hard Rock Café along the way. Many of them will likely be aware of the restaurant's New York location, which was featured prominently in a 2003 episode of Sex and the City.

So the restaurant's eat-on-your-back concept, which is actually more wacky than sexy, needs little introduction. Given that glamorous buildup, it should come as no surprise that the experience of dining at (or in) Bed comes with a substantial price tag. The least expensive entrée - a pine nut, apple and gorgonzola cheese salad - will set you back 255 Kč ($14).

The steep prices seem absurd in these difficult economic times. Yet, over the course of two visits, I left Bed Lounge feeling pleasantly satisfied, at least from a gastronomic perspective. Drinks and meals arrived carefully prepared, well-presented and, most importantly, delicious. (Feel free to insert any number of bawdy puns about the skills of executive chef Miroslav Zezulka, formerly of the city's popular Pizza Coloseum franchise, here.)

As you enter Bed Lounge from the street level, it would be easy to mistake the establishment for a tiny cocktail bar. A spiral staircase leads guests to the more spacious basement level, where the all-white interior, full bar and sparse Buddhist icons resemble a south Florida hip-hop club - though during daylight hours, you're more likely to hear ambient New Age music than Kanye West.

Before stretching out on one of the massive, cushioned beds, diners must first take off their shoes. Food and drinks are then served on white trays which fit snugly over diners' laps. While these don't cause a problem when sipping a cocktail, they can be frustrating when you're trying to eat the pasta dishes and salads.    

On my first lunchtime visit, I started with the grilled mozzarella wrapped in Parma ham. Admittedly, it's not a complex dish, but the kitchen showed remarkable skill at being able to warm the soft cheese while keeping the ham that encased it satisfyingly crispy. The individual meat-and-cheese slices also came unexpectedly served atop a mix of fresh greens and cherry tomatoes, tossed with a zesty balsamic vinaigrette.

The menu keeps descriptions of the various entrees somewhat narrow, which usually means that dishes aren't particularly interesting. At Bed, however, it seems indicative of the kitchen's penchant for surprising its customers. Though difficult to consume while horizontal, the fettuccine with chicken, pomodoro, garlic and basil was especially tasty. A topping of freshly grated Parmesan shavings wasn't noted on the menu, but added an extra touch of savory goodness. Covered in a buttery sauce, the chicken breast stuffed with fresh cheese and nuts had lovely rustic flavors, and came alongside a generous helping of garlic-laden, creamed spinach, which the menu glosses over simply as "spinach leaves."

A second, evening visit was just as pleasant. I opted to start with the beef carpaccio, served with tender lettuce, virgin olive oil and Parmesan shavings, and the meat - more thinly sliced than I'd ever experienced - was quite tender. The decision to keep the olive oil on the side was a wise one, as it allows diners to decide for themselves how much they want to add. It could, however, be more attractively served in a small ramekin or pitcher instead of the store-bought bottle.

Entrees were, once again, quite successful. The green salad with grilled chicken breast and sun-dried tomatoes was crisp and colorful, and, unlike the typical entrée salads found in many other establishments, had a nicely even meat-to-greens ratio. The filet of beef marinated in South American asado spice with grilled vegetables was as good a steak as I've tasted anywhere in Prague. Like a stack of mattresses, the dish was built in individual layers (mashed potato, meat and vegetable) that are unavoidably messy to consume. No doubt the staff found evidence of the meal on the white linens covering the bed long after I'd departed.

I opted to cap off the meal with a fruity cocktail that any Sex and the City fan would no doubt approve of: the "Red Hot Passion," a mix of Jack Daniel's, Triple Sec, Amaretto, grenadine and pineapple juice. The description suggests a brew so potent you'd be unable to walk in a straight line, but, while delicious, the drink proved to be fairly harmless.

The wait staff was pleasant and competent on both visits, if a tad on the slow side. However, in going from the kitchen to the basement dining room, the servers must navigate that spiral staircase with their hands full, which undoubtedly slows matters down a good bit.

Like an overly confident first date, Bed Lounge seems a bit too high-maintenance for its own good. But, as is the case with many ho-hum dates, if you put aside your expectations and the gimmicks, you might just find yourself coming back for more.    

Curtis Wong can be reached at
cwong@praguepost.com