Review: La Boucherie Moderne's Bistrot M

The biggest trend apparent this year, all few weeks of it so far, is the deli/bistro combination. A few steady places have already set the standard, such as Wine Food Market, La Bottega di Finestra and Osteria al Galli, all Italian specialty shops that also sell in-house baked goods and deli meats and cheeses and serve up a changing menu of select plates. By their nature, such spaces have a laid-back feel that encourages chatting with the staff, as you might want to know if the shop stocks that special ingredient you've just tasted. There's also something innately satisfying about picking some cheeses or charcuterie out from the deli counter and then getting it on a plate, accompanied by a chilled glass of wine, to eat then and there.

In Prague 6, there's a new Slovenian place doing the same thing, Nenasyta, which opened at the start of the year, and La Gastronomica Ligure opened out in Nebušice in late 2012, offering Italian goods, gourmet meals and cooking classes. But the most buzz in recent weeks has been about Bistrot M in Smíchov, run by acclaimed chef Jean-Paul Manzac of Brasserie M fame. It welcomingly gives a breath of French air to the local scene, and the only downside is that so far, the bistro is only open weekdays until 4 p.m.; the whole experience of dining there begs for an extended evening visit and a bottle (or two) from the shop's selection of French wines.

The shop, on the other hand, is open a bit later, till 7 on weekdays, and there is one table up front for those impatient to crack open a slab of aged brie or Morbier.  The deli counter also sells thick squares of the bistro's amazing quiche, and other items like duck rillettes or pate that are also available in the back. The shop sells an interesting range of hard-to-find French items, as well as decidedly not-hard-to-find, and not-French, items, like Heinz ketchup and Panzani pasta sauce.

The specialty shop has been open for several months now, and the bistro for several weeks. Despite the shop's being hidden down a side street, and the bistro's being hidden out the back of the shop, the five or six tables there quickly filled up on two recent visits, ensuring steady sizzling sounds emanating from the open kitchen.

The dining area is simple, with arched ceilings and gray-painted walls, high-top bistro tables as well as a counter of several seats below a large blackboard where the menu, in French only, and the daily special, in Czech, are written. The confident waiter deftly translated for diners between English, French and Czech; most people ordered from the daily menu, and while such a dish sampled on a recent visit was excellent, and good value (how often do you see a veal dish for 125 Kč?), the true French-inspired successes lie in the regular menu.

The daily menu is 195 Kč each day for three courses. On one visit, there was a chicken broth to start, rich and strong but a bit salty for some tastes, with shreds of vegetables and croutons. The veal entrée was incredibly tender and sweet, the young meat coming apart at the hint of a fork, covered in a creamy tarragon sauce, with thin, crisp bean pods on the top and a mound of soft, aromatic rice. The dessert with the menu, 45 Kč by itself, was a cup of simplicity: a scoop of diced fruit (strawberry, kiwi, grape and pineapple) dolloped with sweet fresh cream and toasted pine nuts.

One of the starters from the standing menu is a charcuterie plate, which is a good introduction to the deli counter. It consisted of four slabs of poitrine demi-sel, or lightly smoked thick bacon; two circles of peppercorn-studded saucisson; tiny thick rounds of dried chili sausage; and a tangle of deliciously salted jambon de Bayonne, as well as several spicy cornichons and a pat of fresh butter for spreading on crisp baguette slices.

The duck rillettes starter was a fitting complement, the earthy, chunky/smooth spread pairing well with toasted baguette slices topped with garlic and butter. Likewise, the six-piece sampling of escargot (also available by the dozen) was rich and meaty, the snails perfectly balanced between slimy and rubbery, and presented in a homemade pesto that disappeared quickly with the aid of toasted white-bread slivers on the side.

Several of Bistrot M's items are ideal for a light lunch accompanied by a glass of table wine, and the quiche was close to perfect. The piping-hot square, uncrusted, was expertly springy and soft, with a creamy egginess set off by snappy button mushrooms and a lightly heat-crisped layer on top. It came with a handful of fresh greens on the side, with cucumber and tomato, drizzled over with a mustard vinaigrette.

The entrées in particular stood out, with several eye-closingly good moments. The flank steak had no fault and was served medium-rare as requested, oozing pink juices into the well-made gravy of jus and shallots on the plate, sprinkled with rock salt. The steak came topped with caramelized onions and a scoop of unbelievably creamy mashed potatoes; this dish alone was worth the visit.

Halved spring chicken was also noteworthy. The bird had been steeped in herbs, namely thyme and sage, and roasted to a crisp, buttery skin, the meat beneath tearing easily away. Surrounding the chicken were tiny spring potatoes, lightly roasted, which had a wonderfully tasty starchiness to them.

For somewhere that's only been open a few weeks, Bistrot M has hit the ground running. It manages to combine a sought-after yet elusive intimacy in a small space without feeling cramped with artfully high-caliber cooking.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com