Vintage Madeira

Toward the end of last year, a delegation of top producers from Madeira - Blandy's, Henriques & Henriques, Justino's, Barbeito and Borges - paid a visit to Prague.

Madeira is the principal of four islands in a tiny volcanic archipelago located 1,000 km from the European mainland and 640 km off the Moroccan coast. The island itself is 57 km long and only 22 km wide.  

Madeira is named for the expanse of dense forest, or "wooded" land, the Portuguese encountered on landing there in 1419. The island is mountainous with a surprisingly temperate climate: Average temperatures are 73° F in summer and 63° F in winter.

The first settlers wasted no time planting vines, in this case the sweet Malvasia.  Subsequently, the island became a victualling stop where Portuguese and Dutch ships stocked up on their way to their colonial possessions.  

Unfortunately, despite the mild weather, the vineyards are unprotected from the rainy Atlantic winds. As a result, the grapes often struggled to ripen, producing wines that were unstable but served excellently as ships' ballast, as well as keeping scurvy at bay. It was these voyages that made Madeira's name.  

Crossing the equator is enough to kill off any normal wine, but, contrary to all expectations, Madeira's were found to taste better after the ordeal. So much so, in fact, that wines destined for Europe were often sent on lengthy tropical "round trips" first to improve their taste.

When the North American colonies opened up to trade in the 1600s, Madeira wines soon found a new home. In fact, they became so highly regarded that George Washington toasted American independence with Madeira, and the United States became one of its main export markets. By the end of the 18th century, the United States was importing more than a quarter of all Madeira's production, with the state of Georgia, in particular, famed for its Madeira lovers and merchants.         

Madeira wines no longer have to travel anywhere. Instead, they remain in the lodges (wineries), where they endure a less drastic though similar fate, left to mature in lofts heated from below by estufas (stoves) to a whopping 113°.

Volcanic soil means the vineyards are carved into slim terraces, and rows of vines are trained high, in canopy-style, to reduce the likeliness of fungal diseases in the damp climate. Each of the four noble varieties has its own place on the sweetness scale: from the lush dark Malvasia (or its English corruption, Malmsey), through Boal/Bual and Verdelho, to the driest Sercial. The main workhorse grape, however, is the ubiquitous Tinta Negra Mole.

Like the makers of Port wines, Madeira producers today aim for consistent blends, with the finest products labeled Vintage. To become Vintage Madeira, wine must come from a single variety and vintage and age for a minimum 20 years (though some are known to mature for a good 100 years or more).

Vintage Madeira is a seemingly ageless creation, very much a case of "the older, the better," as attested to by such connoisseurs as the legendary Madeira Club in Savannah, Georgia.

Winery of the month  

Karlštejn Experimental and Producing Wine Center and Crop Research Institute

The first mention of vines above the Berounka River at Karlštejn, just southwest of Prague, dates to 1348, with the intention of Emperor Charles IV to plant a vineyard on the slopes beneath the future castle in the town. The experimental center was set up in 1919, shortly after the founding of the Czechoslovak state. At that time, the Bohemian vineyards had not been infected with the devastating Phylloxera bug that wiped out virtually all the world's vineyard regions by the end of the 19th century. The Karlštejn center not only acted as a quarantine station to keep this menace at bay, but also undertook research into new crossings. Now, it serves as a genetic preservation store for crops, and also has a production facility, with 9.5 hectares of vineyard producing 30,000 bottles annually, using a range of varieties. Prices range from 50 to 280 Kč. The center is open to the public for sales Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and offers a good opportunity to combine a visit to a wine shop with a trip to the fairy-tale Karlštejn castle, or even a round of golf at a nearby golf course. For more information, check Vurv.cz.

Wines of the month

Red: Pinot Noir 2005, Terra Spongilitosa  

Producer: Garden Centre, Slaný-Blahotice, Czech Republic          

Crimson in color, this offers a good overall expression of Pinot Noir. Complex, earthy, fruity, with small berry fruit very much in evidence. Dry, finely structured, with firm tannins and very food-friendly. A gold medal winner at a national Pinot competition held annually in the Moravian town of Kyjov. Available directly at the garden center itself, or try the Czech Winemakers' Guild online at Cechcv.cz. (185 Kč)    

Madeira: Boal 2001

Producer: Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira) Lda.

Relatively young by the standards of Madeira shippers, Vinhos Barbeito is today run by Ricardo de Freitas, dynamic grandson of the founder, Mario Barbeito, who established the company in 1946. This example is quite pale to the eye due to no caramel having been added to intensify the color. On the nose it exhibits primary fruity aromas underlined with smokiness. The palate is very fine and elegant, ending on a honeyed note. For more information, check Vinhosbarbeito.com. (1,000 Kč)

Events diary

Top Gastro takes place at Výstaviště Feb. 4-7. Concurrent with Holiday World, the long-established fair for the tourist trade, this gastronomic show is now in its fourth year. It includes a huge number of winemakers from home and abroad, with tastings of foodstuffs as well as wine, seminars, culinary displays, etc. For more information, check Top-gastro.cz.

Helena Baker can be reached at
features@praguepost.com