Michelin loses its luster

Local gourmands are questioning the relevance and accuracy of Michelin restaurant ratings after Allegro was the only Prague restaurant to be awarded a star this year. The crown jewel of the Four Seasons held onto its one-star rating for the third year in a row.

That's good news for Allegro executive chef Andrea Accordi, but some of his peers feel the revered accolade has become overhyped.

"There's been too much talk about Michelin stars," says Divinis executive chef Zdeněk Pohlreich. "My attitude has changed. I used to crave one, but I have been to Michelin star restaurants, and this Michelin 'star bubble' is now quite boring."

Pavel Maurer, the man behind the Grand Restaurant guide and the Prague Food Festival, says this year's awards confirm Michelin "doesn't know the gastronomic scene in the Czech Republic. For example, they awarded a star to Gordon Ramsay's Maze restaurant last year, when it was obvious it was going to close. And this year they awarded a Bib Gourmand to Le Cornichon, when everyone in Prague knew it closed last year."

Having a Michelin star (or stars) has been viewed as the epitome of culinary achievement in the restaurant business. Restaurants are assessed by Michelin inspectors according to a rigorous set of criteria, including the quality of the products used, value for money and the "personality" of the cuisine. A Bib Gourmand is a lesser rating awarded to restaurants deemed to offer "good food at moderate prices."

Pohlreich says he prefers a Bib Gourmand, which he was awarded for the first time this year. "I actually appreciate a Bib Gourmand more than a Michelin star because Bib Gourmands are about good food for good value," he says. "For me, it is much more valuable."

Along with Divinis, SaSaZu also won its inaugural Bib Gourmand this year, while Aromi, Le Terroir and Le Cornichon defended theirs. Meanwhile, the demise of Maze leaves Prague with only one restaurant with a star rating.

Maurer feels more Prague restaurants deserve recognition.

"I am sad because I didn't see any big changes from last year, and I expected more," he says. "I think there are two or three other restaurants in the Czech Republic that deserve a Michelin star."

He lists Le Terroir, La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise, the Alcron and V Zatiší as examples.

A Michelin representative says as inspectors' knowledge of the local restaurant scene grows, there will be more awards.

"Several years ago, the [Michelin] inspectors visited Prague just twice," Michelin Czech branch spokesman Daniel Cahel says. "Last year, they visited several times ? and they have a good overview of the market now. I am sure in the next couple of years there will be more Michelin stars in Prague, as well as other cities in the Czech Republic."

Accordi agrees.

"Prague is not France or Italy, but I hope that next year more restaurants in Prague are awarded a Michelin star," he says, "especially since a lot of chefs are focusing on traditional Czech cuisine with a lot of creativity."

Keeping it kosher

Prague residents now have direct access to kosher goods for the first time since World War II, thanks to the opening of King Solomon's Bakery and Deli in Old Town (V Kolkovně 4) last week. The shop will provide customers with kosher goods ranging from matzo bread, organic kosher meat and cheese to wine and pastries.

"We wanted to cater to educated clients looking for quality, organic and homemade kosher food," says co-owner Michal Günsberger. "Customers will be able to buy good quality challahs and buchtas for the first time since the war."

Günsberger says the concept for the deli developed organically from his ownership of the King Solomon restaurant, to which he added an online adjunct selling kosher food (Kosherfoodonline.cz) three years ago. The idea of the Web site was to test demand before establishing a brick-and-mortar shop. "We wanted to see if it worked," Günsberger says.

While Prague's Jewish population is the target market for the store, Günsberger hopes to attract a much broader clientele. "It won't be like London and New York, where the shops and delis cater mostly to Jews," he says. "Here, the deli will be for others, because there is a demand for kosher food."

With Passover approaching, the deli is concentrating on stocking necessaries for the Jewish holiday. Once it ends, Günsberger says he plans to broaden the offerings.

"We want to make it more like a gourmet bakeshop with pastries, salads and takeaway items," he says. "We also have plans for a coffeehouse, where people can come and sit and relax with a cup of coffee."

Gabriella Hold can be reached at
ghold@praguepost.com