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Distinguished Dublin

Discovering the Irish capital in the footsteps of Barack Obama, Václav Klaus, Bill Clinton and Mark Zuckerberg and the Queen of England


Posted: June 15, 2011

By Megan Eaves - For the Post | Comments (0) | Post comment

Distinguished Dublin

Photo Credit: Ballybunion Golf Club

The Ballybunion golf course on the northwest coast of Co. Kerry overlooks spectacular sand dunes.

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Dublin is not a hard city to like. Bursting with friendliness, the Irish capital is a place where strangers take on conversations with ease, cars buzz and splash down too-narrow streets, pubs are full of chatter and that famous Irish craic at all hours of the day, and getting along is a basic way of life.

You almost wouldn't know it was a city in the midst of an economic crisis. Despite recent doom and gloom about the country's frail economy, life in Dublin trots along at a happy clip, much as it has for the past decade. Propped up on Celtic Tiger legs, the city still resounds with the clinking of glasses and the bustling restaurants of better days, even if the noughties have ceremoniously bid farewell.

In recent weeks, Dublin has played host to a number of rich and famous folks, including the historic visits of U.S. President Barack Obama and British Queen Elizabeth II, both of whom found Ireland a surprisingly swish place to be. In fact, it is positively impossible for the Irish not to show their guests glorious hospitality, no matter what the economic climate may be.

Sleep

One thing Dublin doesn't lack is a selection of excellent luxury hotels. Obama was certainly convinced, as he opted to book the entire Merrion Hotel (Upper Merrion St.; tel. +353 1 603 0060; Merrionhotel.com) rather than stay at Farmleigh House, the official Irish State Guest Residence. The Merrion's five-star digs are all elegant marble columns, fine china and splendidly restored Georgian cornices.

If you are a pop singer or the CEO of a major social networking site, you stay at the incredibly trendy Dylan Hotel (Eastmoreland Pl.; tel. +353 1 660 3005; Dylan.ie) for its urban design and splashes of color, where classic meets goth (think black chandeliers and pink Thai orchids). Mark Zuckerberg was spotted here in May, and Kylie Minogue was a guest while playing a concert in Dublin this March.

And if you're the most famous rock group to ever come out of Ireland, you just buy the entire hotel, which is what Bono and The Edge, lead singer and guitarist for U2, did in 1992 when they redeveloped The Clarence (6-8 Wellington Quay; +353 1 407 0800; Theclarence.ie). They are sometimes spotted drinking in the riverside hotel's Octagon Bar, which reflects the property's classic ambience with its rich leather, warm wood and stained-glass atrium.

Eat & drink

Finding a perfect pint of Guinness is easy in Dublin, but during his 1995 state visit, Bill Clinton lingered over the milky stout at Cassidy's Bar (Westmoreland St.; +353 1 670 8604; Cassidysbar.ie), a bohemian haunt owned by his Irish cousins. The former president has also eaten dinner at Unicorn (12B Merrion Court, Merrion Row; +353 1 676 2182; Unicornrestaurant.com), an Italian-inspired bistro that does fresh takes on Irish cuisine, like pan-fried scallops with Clonakilty black pudding and spaghetti with Irish lobster.

Alternately, some big-name celebs like Ben Affleck, Penelope Cruz and Adam Sandler have discovered the authentically rustic ambience of The Brazen Head (20 Bridge St. Lower; +353 1 677 9549; Brazenhead.com), Dublin's oldest pub founded in 1198 and one of the best pints of Guinness and best plates of bangers 'n' mash on offer in the city. Meanwhile, most Irish journalists and politicians can be found drinking at the classic traditional pub, Doheny & Nesbitt (4-5 Lower Baggot St.; +353 1 676 2945; Dohenyandnesbitts.com), while former Irish Taoiseach (prime minister) Bertie Ahern is often seen drinking in Fagan's (Drumcondra Rd. Lower; +353 1 837 5309), a grand, warm North Side local.

Sightseeing

If you're anything like the Queen, you will surely want to see Ireland's oldest university, Trinity College (Tcd.ie). The grandiose gray-stone Tudor campus is home to the Book of Kells, an ornately decorated Latin manuscript of the four Gospels, hand-painted by Celtic monks circa 800. The book is on display in the mahogany-studded Long Room of Trinity's Old Library, and while you're at it, make sure to check out Brian Boru's Harp, which, along with the two other harps on display here, are the only surviving medieval Gaelic harps in existence.

Almost all visiting dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II, pay a visit to Dublin Castle (Dublincastle.ie), a collection of fortified structures that once housed British government and are now used for state visits and ceremonies. The extravagantly furnished State Apartments and medieval towers are open to visitors daily.

And, of course, what would a trip to Dublin be without a stop at the Guinness Storehouse (Guinness-storehouse.com) for a sup of the beloved stout's history - the section on historic Guinness ads is particularly brilliant - and the chance to pour your own pint? Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip stopped in to the Storehouse, taking in the incredible 360° view of Dublin from the top-floor Gravity Bar.

Golf

Ireland's harsh winds and rugged coastlines give it some of the most challenging golf courses in the world, including the Royal Dublin Golf Club (Theroyaldublingolfclub.com) on Bull Island, which has hosted Bill Clinton and other golfing legends. But Clinton's favorite course in the world is another Irish club, the seaside Ballybunion Golf Club (Ballybuniongolfclub.ie) in Co. Kerry. Clinton told Golf Magazine the club is "perfectly Irish: beautiful, rough and a lot like life - You get breaks you don't deserve, both ways."

Outside Dublin

During his state visit in 2008, Czech President Václav Klaus couldn't resist the temptations of the Cork English Market (Corkenglishmarket.ie), a historic indoor farmer's market in Cork City. Even the Queen said this was her favorite place in Ireland, despite having visited the exquisite Rock of Cashel (Cashel.ie), an ancient Celtic castle structure in Co. Tipperary, as well as the Irish National Stud (Irish-national-stud.ie) in Kildare, where she saw some of the top Irish thoroughbreds and met several famous jockeys.

Likewise, Obama visited his ancestral home in the village of Moneygall in Co. Offaly, where he and the First Lady met and shook hands with all 300 village residents and drank Guinness at the local tavern, Ollie Hayes' Pub.


Megan Eaves can be reached at
megan.eaves@gmail.com


Tags: travel, destinations, dublin, ireland, weekend trips, weekend breaks, flights from prague, czech republic, czech.


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