Eastern promise

Every August, while most of Prague is basking in sunlight, Rickshaw is dark. Nothing stirs in the dining room of this intimate, Far East-inspired restaurant at Prague 4's Corinthia Hotel. Chairs sit empty and cold, while votives and incense sticks beg to be lit. Strange shadows are cast among the bamboo furniture and Asian artifacts canvasing the walls. While closing the doors to an award-winning restaurant during peak tourist season seems like a risky move, this is a sacrifice the hotel is willing to make year after year. While some see this month-long closure as "downtime," those in the know are keenly aware that things are just getting started.

"Every August, our chefs go back to their native homes and discover new spices and test new recipes," said Roman Dolejš, executive head chef at Corinthia Hotel Prague. "From this, we create new menus every year that we roll out in September. This way we are able to offer something truly authentic."

Head chef Suchau Huangwatana was born in China but lives in Singapore, while chef Phosri Thanom is from China. Because China has eight different regional cuisines, and both chefs have sampled and created dishes from all over Asia, together the two are able to give diners a "culinary adventure" drawn from the cuisines of the Far East, which has become the unofficial mission statement of the five-star restaurant.

Rickshaw, which opened in 2000, features recipes from Thailand, China, Indonesia, Philippines, Malaysia and Singapore. Each month, the chefs create a different seasonal menu based on one of these countries, according to Jana Horáčková, marketing manager at the hotel. The featured country in September is China, so the chefs created a specially prepared menu featuring dishes infused with oyster and soy sauces. In addition to the rotating seasonal menu, the Rickshaw chefs have created two separate tasting menus: the Oriental Experience and Rickshaw Discovery.

"These menus are definitely created for people who want to experience or discover the [cuisine] of the Far East," said Dolejš. "They give a little sample of everything Rickshaw is about, like a 'best of.' "

The staff suggests sharing each tasting menu among three to four people as each course has several components. The menus inform the diners of the country from which the cuisine originated, as well as the level of heat, indicated by the number of chili peppers. The Oriental Experience menu features a "golden platter" for an appetizer with dishes including spicy pork meatballs, pan-seared dry scallops with a shallot salad and marinated chicken in banana leaves. The entrees consist of one vegetable dish from China and three dishes from Thailand. Highlighting the region's use of spice is the beef dish Phad Khi Mao. The Rickshaw Discovery features a sampler from Malaysia, Vietnam and Japan for its appetizers, including the menu's only selection of sushi. The three main courses are varied with a spicy Thai duck dish, a spicy Malaysian salmon filet in coconut milk and some traditional Singaporean glass noodles with chicken, pork and shrimp. Each tasting comes with perfectly cooked rice and a light, fruity dessert with both ice cream and sorbet.

"These meals are an experience, so they should be savored and enjoyed for hours at the table," Dolejš said. "This is not a typical Japanese or Chinese restaurant you can find all over in Prague where you sit down, order, eat and leave quickly. All you have to do is walk in here to feel the difference."

With only 45 seats in the bamboo-clad space, it immediately sets the tone for an intimate experience. The attention to detail and personal touches, such as the warm jasmine-scented towels and authentic tea kettle with an exaggerated spout are what Horáčková believes sets Rickshaw apart from other Asian-inspired restaurants in Prague.

"It's a shame that people are wary of us because we are located in a five-star hotel," she said. "Yes, we are five-star, and yes, we are in a hotel, but all that means is that we offer comfort and quality."

Megan Battista can be reached at
features@praguepost.com