On the border

There are few things that will bring a wistful look to an expat's eye like the mention of Tex-Mex. And every time rumor of a new place goes around, it fuels unbridled hope that surely somewhere, someone, finally, can get it right.

Now, there is somewhere that does: Barabizna in Zbraslav, which has built a steady following for itself over the years by serving up cheap, big plates of the gooey and cheesy real thing. And technically, it's in the city.

Zbraslav is part of Prague 5, but the former village is about 15 minutes by bus from Smíchovské nádraží south along the Plzeň-bound highway, or 25 minutes by intermittent train from Hlávní nádraží. The restaurant aside, it's a beautiful place to visit, with a well-kept Baroque chateau, Celtic burial grounds and an excellent departure point for the dense network of hiking and biking trails that traverse the hilly, forested surroundings, with paths connecting to downtown Prague, Karlštejn and beyond.

Surprising as it may be to find an outpost of comfortingly kitsch Tex-Mex on the city outskirts, all of this plays in Barabizna's favor. From the outside, it looks like any other residential house, albeit slightly more festive. Brightly painted walls of reds, blues and oranges are crammed full of sombreros, Frida Kahlo-esque portraits and Aztec-looking knickknacks vying for space and attention. The place is small, and was packed with families on a recent weekend visit. Fortunately, the server was able to squeeze us into a cozy loft space between reservations.

The meals are huge, and the kitchen doesn't scrimp on anything. Cheddar, salsa, guacamole, beans, beef and jalapenos were piled high on a starter of Nachos Rancheros, big enough to share or to have as a meal. Barabizna's version puts most other local attempts - too soggy, too out-of-the-bag, not enough of anything - to shame. The chips were well-toasted, with charred bits that added a kick to the heaped toppings. The jalapenos in particular sneak up on you, as they are chopped up and mixed in with everything, creating a cumulative, mouth-fanning heat that has the waiters ferrying Budvars to tables with a note of urgency. Barabizna's only fault is that it lacks margaritas on the menu, though it does have a range of themed mixed drinks, like pina colada and tequila sunrise, all for under 100 Kč.

The gazpacho soup, which my Spanish dining companion and self-proclaimed "gazpacho gestapo" enthused over, was a laudable approximation save for the use of tinned tomatoes; it had all the right notes of pepper, vinegar and garlic. The flatware alone is something to marvel at: rough-hewn, colorful and mismatched ceramic plates and bowls that continue the Southwest theme and complement the dishes, which are likewise bursting with color and flavor.

The menu is large, and features most of the standards one would expect, with a few interesting twists showing off the kitchen's confidence with the cuisine. Chicken enchiladas are stuffed to the gills with tender chunks of chicken and covered with melted, smoky cheese, leaving no parts of the flour tortilla untouched. Two salsa varieties, red and green, are lathered generously on top, creating (with the sour cream) a Mexican flag. The salsas are very sweet, but, mixed in with the sour cream, they give the enchiladas the right impact of tasty comfort food.

The quesadilla gusta, with chicken and barbecue sauce, was equally stuffed, and the sauce brought a nice tang to the dish without being overly sweet. Burritos del frijol negro wrapped simmered black beans, ground beef and cheddar together in an enormous, fresh tortilla. The Texas chili suffered slightly in comparison, but was still very good. Sirloin strips and black beans filled a saucepan brought as the plate, and tortillas on the side made for good dipping.

Oddly, most of the dishes come with the Czech standard obloha on the side, although the light cabbage and cucumber slices come in handy for trying to tame the spiciness of some dishes.

Another way to temper the spice is by cooling your mouth on some fried ice cream. Three scoops of French vanilla are battered and quick-fried in chopped nuts, drizzled with hazelnut sauce and nestled among mountains of whipped cream and slices of banana and apple. It definitely pushes you over the edge of fullness after the other courses, but should not be missed.

For those who love and crave Tex-Mex in epic proportions, Barabizna's got it. And, with spring just around the corner, the patio garden lit with fairy lights is all the more appealing. It's just fortuitous that such a place is located where it is, as there are plenty of ways to work up an appetite around Zbraslav.

Fiona Gaze can be reached at
fgaze@praguepost.com