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A splash of flavor

When cooking, never use a cooking wine
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

October 8th, 2008 issue

Apart from choosing red or white, there is one rule when it comes to cooking with wine: Never use a wine you wouldn’t drink.

MICHAEL HEITMANN/The Prague Post
Ordinary pasta takes on the hue of fine wine in this quick and easy recipe.
That of course means no “cooking wine” — those bottles stocked by some grocers exclusively for use in the kitchen. As wine reduces, the alcohol begins to evaporate and fruity or tannic characters associated with each varietal become more intense. Cooking wine generally contains salt. As a result, it tends to infuse dishes with a wicked, briny taste.
Good wine, however, lends a greater depth to the finished flavors. Sweet varietals develop into rich, almost grilled fruit sauces. Bold reds push their more subtle elements forward. Some build herbal, savory character.
If you follow rule No. 1 and know a little about reds and whites, experimentation will teach the rest.
Glenn Svarc is chef of Da Clara, located at Mexická 7, Prague 10–Vršovice. Tel. 271 726 548.

SPAGHETTI ‘UBRIACONE’ (DRUNKARD’S SPAGHETTI)

(Serves 2)
Ingredients:
250 grams spaghetti (good quality)
100 grams pancetta, chopped
2–3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 fresh tomatoes, cored, peeled and chopped
2 glasses (or a little more) of full-bodied red wine (like Sangiovese or Montepulciano)
Pinch of peperoncino
Sprig of rosemary
Parmesan, pecorino or both
Sea salt
Chopped parsley
Preparation
Bring water to a boil for pasta.
In the meantime, add olive oil, chili and rosemary to a pan.
Heat and add pancetta.
Fry until the pancetta begins to crisp and add garlic.
Stir for a minute then add one glass of red wine.
Allow wine to evaporate, then add tomatoes to pan.
Add to the boiling water a small handful of salt and the spaghetti.
As the pasta cooks, add second glass of wine to pan with pancetta.
After about five minutes, drain spaghetti and pour contents of pan over the spaghetti.
Spaghetti should begin to turn the color of Bordeaux, soaking up wine sauce but remaining al dente.
Serve with grated cheese and chopped parsley.


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