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December 1st, 2008
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From the hearth

Reviving a French bread tradition
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August 13th, 2008 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Here's looking at you, kid: turning one loaf into an entire meal is very easy.
What many people refer to as French bread, the large baguette “stick,” became popular only in the late 19th century. Bakers in Paris and across the country had traditionally prepared round loaves leavened by sourdough.
Troubled by the demise of this classic style, a young Norman baker named Pierre Poilane opened a shop in 1932. He re-created the old-fashioned pain de Campagne, turning out large, thick-crusted rounds based on the sourdough technique.
Flour and water will naturally begin to ferment over time if left in a warm place. This “soured” dough works as a leavening agent — and provides a distinct flavor. In the hands of a skilled craftsperson, the crust develops a beautiful golden color and crisp texture over soft and glutenous bread.
Poilane’s version of France’s traditional daily bread is now revered as pain Poilane. In Prague, it can be found at Fruits de France and Café Savoy.
Roman Frencl is chef for Café Savoy, located at Vítězná 5, Prague 5–Smíchov. Tel. 257 311 562.

PARISIAN SPINACH BREAD

(Serves 5)
Ingredients:
5 slices of French bread (pain Poilane)
5 eggs
500 grams fresh spinach leaves
125 grams fresh butter
100 grams onion, chopped
25 grams garlic, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
Directions:
Wash and drain spinach.
Melt butter in a pan and sauté garlic.
Add onion and spinach leaves.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until spinach is soft.
Toast slices of bread on a dry pan, until each side is crisp.
Place bread slices in a baking dish and arrange spinach on each to form a cup (note: drain and pat spinach dry so bread stays crisp).
Break one egg into each spinach “cup.”
Sprinkle with salt and bake at 180 C until egg is done.
 


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Reader's comments:

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[08:36 16/08/2008] : Here's the problem with bleached bread: It reduces the iodine in the bread, which imbalances the hormones, and cooked eggs are hard to digest, so eat enzymes with this or cook eggs and spinach as little as possible. I'll try it for my Czech friends.
Mary Martinez
Las Vegas, Nevada USA
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