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Queen of pies

Achieving greatness with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

July 30th, 2008 issue

DOROTHEA BYLICA/The Prague Post
A splash of red, white and green stands for Italy and the pizza Margherita.
Seasoned flatbreads have been a staple for centuries in cultures the world over. But the “invention” of pizza Margherita in 1889 was a milestone.
Italians quickly adopted the tomato, a New World discovery, into their cuisine. The first pizzas were, however, very simple creations. By the 19th century, Neapolitans had made seasoned flat bread a specialty. In fact, the very word “pizza” comes from a verb meaning “to season” (or, alternatively, “to sting”). To honor the royal family’s visit to Naples in 1889, chef Raffaele Esposito, as the story goes, decided to present them with a pie dressed in Italy’s national colors. In addition to the usual tomato (red), he added basil (green) and mozzarella (white).
Basil was an inspiration. The subtle bursts of pepper, jasmine and citrus from fresh leaves work beautifully with tomato and seems to bring delicate cheese to life.
Queen Margherita was apparently delighted by the chef’s efforts, so he attached her name to the pizza. Countless topping and crust combinations exist around the world, including gourmet varieties. Many people still consider this marriage of ingredients the queen of pies. After all, it is the foundation of all modern pizzas.
Radek Pecko is chef at Pizza Nuova, an Ambiente Group restaurant located at Revoluční 1, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 221 803 308.

PIZZA MARGHERITA

(serves four)
Ingredients:
1,200 grams pizza dough
440 grams canned San Marzano tomatoes
200 grams fior di latte cheese
80 grams Parmegiano Reggiano cheese
24 grams olive oil
24 grams sunflower oil
4 grams fresh basil
For pizza dough:
560 grams Italian smooth flour 00 (Caputo)
60 grams fresh yeast
Approximately 200 milliliters water
30 grams salt
Directions:
To make the dough, mix flour, yeast and salt then add some water.
Work into a smooth dough, adding water or sprinkling with more flour. If necessary, until the dough does not stick to the hands.
Allow the dough to rise for at least one hour.
Press flat (you may use a roller, but for an authentic touch, press with hands) and leave covered overnight to rise.
Note: you may separate into smaller pies.
Press dough once more into the proper shape.
Strain canned San Marzano tomatoes and spread juice over center of dough.
Arrange fresh basil on pie.
Grate Fior di Latte cheese coarsely and sprinkle over surface.
Do the same with Parmigiano Reggiano.
Sprinkle with olive and sunflower oils.
Bake at 300 C for a very short time, until crust reaches desired crispiness — usually one minute.
Allow to sit for at least 30 seconds before serving.


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