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November 23rd, 2008
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Hill of beans

Blue Mountain coffee at Culinaria and other things brewing

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
July 9th, 2008 issue

Photo courtesy of PORT ANTONIO TRAVEL
A view of coffee heaven: Jamaica's hillsides grow an expensive crop.
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Blue Mountain coffee from Jamaica has achieved more notoriety than any other bean. Unless, of course, you measure it against Kopi Luak — you know, the stuff passed through the bowels of the catlike civets of Sumatra that sells for about $300 a pound.
A warm, steaming cup of Kopi Luak begs for sophomoric commentary, but I’m not going to succumb.
By comparison, the paltry $45 or so American shops charge for Blue Mountain seems like a bargain. Still, for that price, you should be rewarded with a complex, rich cup of coffee with a subtle acidity. Grown in Jamaica’s central Blue Mountains, where fog filters much of the sunlight and extends the development process, the fruit is hand-picked and subjected to wet-processing. In theory, this allows enzymes and noble rot to work, enhancing the finished product.
But several producers have learned to short-cut the process, turning out beans that, according to connoisseurs, fall slightly short of the real deal. And others label their brands as Blue Mountain “style” or Blue Mountain “blend” — a sleight-of-hand that jacks up the price of mediocre coffee.
I mention all this because Culinaria has nabbed a shipment of Jablum brand Blue Mountain coffee. It’s advertised as being hand-picked by female laborers (as if a bunch of lumbering guys might bruise the fruit), and certified by the Jamaican government.
And it sells for 999 Kč per pound (although smaller packs are available).
Hot fun in the summertime
The French know how to celebrate: Pound down some good wine, start singing folk songs and tear down massive government buildings. Granted, the latter happened just once a long time ago, but Bastille Day is still a good party. Many French restaurants feature special deals or live music. And this year, there’s a two day French Market on Kampa Island. Purchase, sample (or both) wines, cheeses, cured meats, patés — even olive oil from the south of France. In attendance: such local mainstays as Brasserie M and Au Gourmand, as well as at least 10 French winemakers. The event runs July 13 and 14 from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Organizers of the Prague Food Festival released some numbers from the popular weekend event: Bohemia Sekt tents popped open 1,800 bottles of bubbly; U Pinkasů poured 2,930 liters of that other famous Czech brew; and Brasileiro portioned out 170 kilograms of beef on Saturday alone. More importantly for the event’s future, 10,997 paying visitors roamed the grounds of Žofín, up from 8,000 last year.
For those who wish the spirit of the festival would continue all summer long, Mandarin Oriental has launched Asian grill nights on its new outdoor patio. OK, so there’s no foliage, no lawn and no river in sight. But it’s outside, and the menu offers a variety of grilled meats, seafood and vegetables. Call 233 088 777 for more information.
Can’t stand the heat?
The city’s original “Australian” pub, Bumerang, disappeared from view. And it’s unlikely to return, now that a place called Restaurace Historie occupies the location.
One of Prague’s original celebrity chefs, Zdeněk Pohlreich of Café Imperial and Metropol (the one across from Tesco on Národní), recently added Divinis to his burdens. Pohlreich says he plans few changes, but will keep the current chef in place.
As everyone who lives in Expatville knows, Café Sahara has been alternately spectacular and pathetic, depending upon the management team of the month. But it looks like a new group headed by Miguel Perez has managed to settle in and find some consistency.
 
Things are a-poppin’
Back to Culinaria for a moment: The Old Town haven for Brits and Americans who miss processed foods has also stocked up on Pop Tarts, Aunt Jemima pancake mix, Nutter Butter cookies, the classic Fig Newtons and a bunch of other all-American treats. Alas, no Cheese-Its.
The alliteration doesn’t quite work, but Bohemia Bagel in Holešovice launched Taco Thursdays. Your choice of beef, chicken, fish or vegetable versions for about 30 Kč each.
Final (slurred) words
As fans of beer that has been distilled over smoldering peat and stored in barrels throughout Scotland for, oh, 12 or 18 years know, it’s difficult to track down more than the most common brands unless you visit the small shop on Týnská. But a couple weeks ago I bumped into an entrepreneur from Russia who sells single malt Scotch online. He’s hoping to set up shop — a real, physical bricks and mortar deal — in Prague sometime next year. Prague 1, 2 or the cluster of office buildings in Prague 4 seem the most promising locations.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (9/07/2008):

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