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October 7th, 2008
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Old World favorite

By any name, schnitzel is always satisfying
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

July 2nd, 2008 issue

JAN PŘEROVSKÝ/THE PRAGUE POST
A popular dish from the golden age, this plate of battered veal will melt hearts.
Just about every restaurant or pub in the city serves a dish bearing the name Vienna schnitzel or its German equivalent, Wiener schnitzel.
Quite often, the use of “Vienna” is misleading. Local restaurants often serve pork and sometimes chicken in their schnitzels. Authentic Vienna schnitzel calls for veal cutlets fried in clarified butter, lending a crisp crust and extraordinarily tender meat.
Chefs have been preparing it this way for many decades. Even the French — sticklers for tradition — recognize this style as “a la Viennese,” meaning dishes lightly breaded and fried in the manner of Vienna’s kitchens.
Still, the recipe is subject to local whims. So we find it based on pork in the Czech Republic and pounded beef in the American Southwest (where it’s known as “chicken fried steak”). At Café Savoy, we fry the schnitzels in lard for additional flavor.
Roman Frencl is chef at Cafe Savoy, located at Vítězná 5, Prague 5?Smíchov. Tel. 257 311 562

 VIENNA SCHNITZEL (WEINER SCHNITZEL)

Ingredients
1800 grams fresh veal
600 grams grated white bread
300 grams flour (medium ground)
10 eggs
500 grams pork lard
200 grams butter
Sea salt
Preparation
Cut meat into 1-centimeter slices, cutting across the grain
Pound meat lightly and season with sea salt
Beat eggs and pour into a large bowl
Pour flour and grated white bread into separate large bowls
To bread, dip meat first in flour then in beaten eggs and finally in the grated white bread
Do not press meat firmly into flour or crumbs; bread lightly
Melt pork lard in pan and fry schnitzels slowly, 3–4 minutes each side, adding a little butter into the pan each time you turn the schnitzels (if the temperature is correct, butter will not burn)
Store finished schnitzels in oven heated to 80 C as you fry the others. Do not store in a covered pan
Serve with potato salad and a wedge of lemon (or with cranberries)
 


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