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Soaking it in
Marinating makes for something extraordinary
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives
June 11th, 2008 issue
COURTESY PHOTO |
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COURTESY PHOTO
A taste of the American South can be achieved with a good rub and a fiery grill.
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When chefs rub seasoning into meat or cover a piece in oil and allow it to sit overnight, the reason may seem clear.But marinades do more than add flavor. Depending on the type — dry rub, wet rub, brining — its purpose may be to enhance the taste, to tenderize tough cuts or a little of both.Enzymes from certain plants and acids found in citrus, oils or even dairy products work to break down fibers in the meat, a process known as tenderizing. The famous South American dish ceviche, for example, relies on fresh-squeezed lime juice to soften raw fish. But marinating thick sirloin steaks would only ruin the meat, turning the outer edges into mush and releasing juices into the pan once cooking starts. Thus, it’s best to limit wet rubs and brining to cheap, tough or thin cuts of meat.Dry rubs also draw some moisture out, but they do more for the taste. Adding sugars into the marinade will help caramelize the crust, making for a sweet, spicy, savory experience. Vlasta Jiroš Lacina is chef at Ambiente, located at Mánesova 59, Prague 2–Vinohrady. Tel. 222 727 851.ALL-SOUTH RIBS (Serves 10)Ingredients: 5 kilograms pork ribs500 grams mango-chili sauce300 grams Caesar salad dressing300 grams fresh celery 300 grams fresh carrot 80 grams red onionLettuce leavesMarinade:120 grams salt90 grams crystal sugar 90 grams ground red paprika 80 grams cane sugar 40 grams ground cumin 40 grams freshly ground pepper 25 grams ground chili Preparation:Heat a pan without oil and place paprika, cumin, chili and pepper in pan.Roast spices for about 10 minutes (do not allow to burn).Remove from heat and mix with other marinade ingredients.Rub this mix into ribs and allow to sit for 24 hours in refrigerator.The next day, preheat oven to 130 C.Place a small pan with boiling water in oven and set ribs over this pan.Bake ribs for 10 minutes then lower temperature to 100 C.Bake for one hour then lower temperature to 75 C.Bake for six or seven hours.Place ribs on plate along with fresh vegetables (cut into sticks) and mango chili sauce.Decorate with lettuce leaves sprinkled with Caesar dressing.
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