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November 21st, 2008
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Diamonds in the rough

Checking out a Prague 5 pub and other random tidbits

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
May 28th, 2008 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Restaurace Andělka is a surprisingly friendly and colorful hangout serving decent international fare.
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You might overlook this little restaurant on the edge of Smíchov’s shining office and shopping district. The building’s shabby, communist-era tile facade has a little trouble suggesting warmth, comfort or the promise of a decent meal.
But Restaurace Andělka aspires to more than its surroundings suggest: baguettes, Norwegian salmon, pork t-bone and other ambitious plates share menu space with traditional Czech fare and pub classics. Plum wrapped in bacon depends on thick strips of pungent meat to offset the earthy sweetness of dried fruit. Served with a sharp, aromatic honey, it’s one of the better expressions of this starter I’ve tried, at least in Prague. And it’s hard to stop picking at the homemade bramboračky.
Not surprisingly, many dishes top out at the “better than average for a pub” level. Something called hell chicken should torch your palate — or at least threaten to catch fire before sputtering out. But Andělka’s recipe seems rather on the blah side. And the scanty Old Bohemian ribs need more help than a few Lay’s-worthy dipping sauces.
Still, it feels right: friendly, comfortable and bright, with food relatively well-prepared by hired hands back in the kitchen.
Not even the plate of hermelín cheese, translated on the menu as “cured white mildew,” should cause you to lump Andělka in with commonplace pubs.
More tips
In keeping with the season, Le Pavillon in the BB Centrum complex (Prague 4) has created a multicourse asparagus feast. Choose up to five dishes, each featuring the spears — well, except perhaps for the dessert. Otherwise, it’s asparagus quiche, roasted salmon with asparagus, poussin in asparagus sauce, and so on. Call 607 267 388 for pricing, reservations and more information.
CzecHouse in the Prague Hilton (that’s the original Karlín location) joins the fray with a wild salmon and asparagus fiesta June 12–22. Find out more at 224 842 700. By the way, CzecHouse plucked Belgian native Peter de Smedt from the Hilton Valencia to fill its vacant chef de cuisine position.
World on a plate
Short notice, but the cool “hidden gem” in Dejvice, Monsoon, puts aside its pan-Asian fusion roots in favor of a Japanese Gala Dinner. Entertainment includes a traditional puppet show by Noriyuki Sawa. The event takes place May 30, starting at 7:30 p.m. and costs 790 Kč ($49.50). Details at 222 959 999.
Friday and Saturday nights, La Casa Andina brings in live Andean music to go along with its mostly authentic Peruvian menu. Reservations are a must on these occasions. Call 224 815 996.
Angel’s weekday lunch deals are gaining a reputation for price and quality. Chef Sofia Smith’s Asian creations run a mere 290 Kč for two courses, or 390 Kč for the hat trick. Her menu changes every week, so you’ll probably never lose interest.
The former Pod Křídlem restaurant just off Národní is set to reopen as Pod Křídlem Noci. A bold move, if you ask me.
Bucking trends
The Seattle coffee giant, Starbucks, opened its 897th Prague location May 20. Or maybe it’s just the fourth or fifth location — already I’ve lost count. Anyway, this one occupies a large plot (by which I mean a Venti plot) between the big (Grande) IKEA and Tesco outlets in Zličín, which seems somehow fitting. In order to show community spirit, Starbucks has also developed a second local primary-school literature program, to foster in Czech youth a love of reading, writing, art and dark roasted grinds.
Final (slurred) words
The battle over the fate of Prague’s “beloved” sausage stands goes on, though in one case it’s fair to say that it literally vanished. When officials from Prague 1, along with a cadre of police, converged on the Můstek area to haul off the first of these not-very-traditional architectural features May 12, they … um … couldn’t find it. Seems the stand’s owner dragged it away overnight, clattering through the always-busy Wenceslas Square area without being seen, heard or even missed — until cops valiantly surrounded the grease-stained piece of empty sidewalk.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (28/05/2008):

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