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That which is Caesar's

Famous salad rarely resembles the original
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

May 21st, 2008 issue

KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
More than just a plate of greens: Chicken and spicy seasoning make for a meal.
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There is an argument that pops up occasionally in gourmand circles about the properties of a “proper” Caesar salad.
Essentially, it’s an anchovies or no anchovies debate. The fish add a rich, salty element, so it’s rather difficult to imagine Caesar Cardini’s creation without them. Yet the Tijuana restaurateur himself seemed to waffle on the issue.
Stories abound that Cardini, who reportedly invented the salad in 1924, adamantly refused to use anchovies. But Julia Child and others who documented his “original” recipe all mention the little fish. So today, while some chefs arrange anchovies on the lettuce or blend them into the dressing, many more ignore this ingredient altogether.
The truth is, chefs long ago began tampering with Cardini’s dish. Rarely do you find the salad dripping with runny, coddled egg, for example. And restaurants happily add bacon, chicken or other meats to turn a simple side into a hearty meal.
This particular recipe is a twist, with nods to the famous original — whatever one considers original.
Martin Lev is chef at Jáma, located at V Jámě 7, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 224 222 383

CAJUN CHICKEN CAESAR WITH SAUTÉED PEPPERS

Ingredients:
1 head Romaine lettuce
100 grams Parmesan cheese
150 grams Chicken breast
1 red bell pepper
1 green bell pepper
1 teaspoon Cajun spices (you can make your own or buy a pre-mix from most supermarkets)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Cubes of white bread (for croutons)
For the dressing:
60 grams anchovies (or to taste)
80 grams Mayonnaise (about 4 soup spoons)
25 grams pressed garlic (about 4 cloves)
80 grams olive oil (about 6 soup spoons)
A dash of sugar and salt
50 grams Parmesan cheese
Preparation:
Wash the lettuce and tear into large pieces, then place in a bowl
Sauté bread cubes in olive oil and garlic until crisp (about two minutes)
Cover lettuce with Parmesan cheese and croutons
Mix the dressing ingredients together and toss with the salad
Place chicken breast on a pan with olive oil
Sprinkle Cajun spices over meat
Fry both sides of the chicken breast until browned
Remove the chicken and add the sliced peppers
Sauté for two minutes in the remaining juices and spices then remove from heat
Place the salad on a plate and add slices of the chicken along with a few of the peppers
Serve with dry white wine
 


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