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July 25th, 2008
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An old flame

Grilled meat, South American-style
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

May 14th, 2008 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
For a taste of South America, all you need is the rich flavor of grilled beef.
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Picanha, rump steak capped by a thick layer of fat, is a cut of beef popular throughout parts of South America. Over a hot grill, the fat cap begins to melt into the meat, creating rich flavors. As a result, picanha is a favorite at churrasquerias around the world.
The term churrasquerias defines a particular type of restaurant. “Grill” or “barbecue” may be the closest Western equivalent — the kind of place where meat is prepared over an open flame or hot coals.
Almost every culture has a grilling tradition, from kebabs to basting ribs for an old-fashioned barbecue. Because of the quality of South American beef, as well as the continuous cooking process, churrasquerias popped up everywhere.
In Brazil, where these establishments first became a national obsession, the manner of grilling varies from north to south. But in Europe and North America, restaurants generally settle for “gaucho” style presentation, where wait staff trot skewers of meat from table to table, slicing off pieces to order.
Heat and a little salt are all you need to bring out the unique flavor of grass-fed beef, although many aficionados prefer a spicy chimichurri sauce on the side.
Martin Matys is chef at Brasileiro, an Ambiente Group restaurant located at U Radnice 8, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 224 234 474.

PICANHA

Ingredients:
1 large piece of beef picanha — either Brazilian or Uruguayan beef (Angus)
Coarse sea salt
Preparation:
Season only with sea salt
Cut meat into 15 cm (6 inch) pieces and place, in a U shape, on skewer with the fat cap around the outside
Do not cut fat cap before grilling as it provides much of the flavor
Grill over very hot coals (wood is best) and turn slowly
After 10 minutes or less of grilling, pull from heat and slice thinly until you reach the raw portion
Season again with sea salt and grill
Continue to grill and slice off meat until complete
If you don’t care for fat meat, you may slice off cap after grilling is completed
 


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