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May 18th, 2008
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Nice work if you can get it

Bopping through Burgundy's unique wine-tasting fair

By Helena Baker
For The Prague Post
May 7th, 2008 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Winemaker Michel Arcelain watches guests try glasses from Chateau de Pommard.
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Every two years, a different kind of trade fair takes place. It involves wandering among the villages of Burgundy, with several stops for tastings, over a six-day period in March.
The stroll begins in the small town of Chablis, renowned for its cool, steely white wines. Presentations from 90 local producers kick off the festivities. Then the show moves down through the Cotes de Nuits, on to Macon via Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Santenay, the Chalononnais and the always-interesting Salon of Young Talents from the entire region in the Chateau of Savigny — not just a drunk-fest (tasting of no less than 50 Grands Crus), mind you, but a dinner at Clos de Vougeot.
This extensive celebration is organized by local wine guilds and regional political and trade bodies to promote the wines of the area. Long gone are the days when regions such as Burgundy could rely on their name alone. Exports have fallen of late, mainly due to economic uncertainty in the United States.
More than 18,000 visitors came this year, more than half from abroad, driven by an increasing presence of Asian and Eastern European vinophiles. Tastings run until early evening in town halls, chateaux or trade halls — which may sound like hard going. Indeed, standing all day, swirling, nosing, sipping and, of course, spitting it away for almost a week is demanding, though nice work if you can get it, as they say.   
Luckily, shuttle transport is on hand to ferry hard-working wine folk from one destination to the next. Food stops involve either buffets or cocktail dinatoire, sometimes even a sit-down feast. At the Chateau de Meursault, a dinner to remember was designed to marry the best Burgundy wines brought by local vignerons.
The Grands Jours Press Trophy, awarded for the greatest contribution to the art of wine journalism related to the region, went to Michael Apstein, a doctor (ironically, a liver specialist) from the United States who has the enviable record of having written more than 300 pieces on this seductive subject over the last 30 years.
For more information, check Grands-jours-bourgogne.com.
Winery of the month Moravské Vinařské Závody
This is a winery with a checkered history. Founded in Ostrava in 1929, well away from the vine-growing regions, the Moravian Wine Works gradually built up a decent reputation, working all the while with brought-in grapes. After 1948, it was nationalized and, in 1971, moved its headquarters to historical cellars in nearby Hukvaldy, another nonvinous locality (more famous as the birthplace of composer Leoš Janáček in 1854). Only recently did the firm move again, this time to the royal wine town of Bzenec. It now owns around 280 hectares (692 acres) of vineyard and is counted among the main producers of quality wines in Moravia, some under the ubiquitous Herbarium Moravicum label. Quality is on the upswing, with coveted prizes rolling in from contests home and abroad, including three awards at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles two weeks ago. (One of the citations, a gold medal for Ego N 81 Riesling 2006, was awarded by Jury 34, over which I presided.) The wines are competitively priced, with many falling into the 100–150 Kč ($6–9) range. The company has its own vinotéka at the winery. Tutored tastings by prior arrangement. For more information, check Mvz.cz.   
Wines of the month
White: Sauvignon Blanc, selection of grapes 2007, single vineyard Odměry  
Producer: Petr Bíza, Čejkovice
Pale straw, with pronounced fruity aromas evoking gooseberries, quince, peaches and intense fruitiness on the palate, all well-balanced due to its crisp acidity. Despite slightly higher residual sugar, it feels completely dry, with the aftertaste lingering on and on. (190 Kč)  
Red: Chateau Jean-Faure 2005, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru AOC
Producer: Olivier Decelle, Chateau Jean-Faure, Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux, France
From the quaint little town of Saint Emilion comes this example made from almost equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with a touch of Malbec. Vintage 2005 was as near as possible to a perfect growing season, giving a heady purple wine with forward cassis and dark-fruit flavors. Very well-structured, complex on the palate, with black cherry, chocolate, licorice and even a hint of farmyard, with silky yet firm tannins. (Around 800 Kč)
Events diary  
On Saturday, May 10, the Tramín Cup 2008 competition takes place in the Yaxi Zlatý Kopeček restaurant in the south Moravian town of Čejkovice, in honor of the spicy Gewurztraminer grape. This is a small affair with entries mainly from local producers, though some hail from Austria, France and even South Tyrol in Italy. A ticket to cover a tasting of all samples, accompanied by dulcimer music, runs 300 Kč. The restaurant plans a special Tramín menu. Festivities kick off at 2 p.m. For more information, check Yaxi.cz or write yaxi@yaxi.cz.
Helena Baker’s wine column appears the first Wednesday of each month. She can be reached at features@praguepost.com

Helena Baker can be reached at features@praguepost.com


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