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May 18th, 2008
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From the frying pan

Quick 'cakes are a staple in many cultures
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

May 7th, 2008 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
When fried to a perfect golden brown, pancakes are both fluffy and crisp.
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Almost every culture counts at least one quick-fried flatbread as part of its culinary repertoire.
During the U.S. Civil War, soldiers in the field prepared “Johnny Cakes” from coarse flour, water and whatever scraps of meat were handy. American diners still feature pancakes, often drenched in butter and maple syrup, although sometimes topped with blueberries or other ingredients.
Mexican ground-corn patties, the German potato pancake — all represent different approaches to the same concept. This leek variety is an old-fashioned Czech dish.
Versatility is perhaps the primary reason “pancakes” are so universal. Cooks start with anything from cassava to rice and add either sweet or savory ingredients, depending upon the season, time of day or personal whims.
And, best of all, they are both easy and filling.
— Eva Brejlová is a noted home cook and a collector of Czech family recipes.

LEEK PANCAKES

Ingredients:
4 leeks
2 eggs
100 grams hard flour
1/8 liter milk
50 grams ham (or pork) cut into small pieces
A pinch of salt
Preparation:
Make the batter from flour, milk, eggs and a pinch of salt.
Cut the leeks into small pieces, scald and strain them.
Pour hot water over the leek while still in the colander then add to the dough together with ham.
If the mixture is too thin, you can thicken it with a little flour.
Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the mixture, patting the pancakes into shape with a spoon or spatula.
Fry on both sides until golden brown.
This dish is delicious with sliced carrots stewed in butter.


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