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July 5th, 2008
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Eager to consume, Prague is selling its soul


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May 7th, 2008 issue

Among the many recent changes in the cityscape as Prague continues its headlong rush into consumer culture, none has been quite as dismaying as the commercialization of the House of the Black Madonna. A cozy bookstore filled with intelligent fare that reflected the building’s architectural significance has been replaced by an urban streetwear shop no different from the many that scream from practically every corner of the city center.

A few blocks away, náměstí Republiky looks like something off the Las Vegas strip, with the glittery new Palladium mall framed by giant advertising banners hanging from the surrounding buildings. Inside, many of the shops are duplicates of the ones already on nearby Na Příkopě street. Among the few newcomers is a Starbucks, which, after the chain’s arrival in Prague earlier this year, is growing like spring weeds, most prominently in a historic kavárna space on Malostranské náměstí.
What’s wrong with all this? Legally and morally, nothing. Landlords can rent to whomever they please, and city officials are free to develop Prague in any manner they wish. And, as the capitalism juggernaut rolls through this part of the world, only a Luddite or hopeless nostalgist would think there’s any chance of stopping it.
Aesthetically, however, what’s happening is a disaster. Shops and buildings are being turned over to commercial interests with little regard for their historic importance, much less the impact of new development on the city’s overall character and culture. Gradually, the unique charm of Prague is being eroded, replaced by the crass consumerism that dominates nearly every developed city in the world.
Put in the context of the recent draconian cuts in funding for the city’s nonprofit arts institutions, these developments are even more disheartening. One of the city’s few legitimate claims to world-class status is its vibrant cultural scene, which in turn attracts a steady stream of international performers. That city officials are so willing to gut Prague’s cultural life, while encouraging mindless commercial development, suggests at the very least a warped set of priorities.
Perhaps the most striking demonstration of those priorities is currently on display at the main train station, where badly needed reconstruction continues at a snail’s pace — except for an upscale Neo-Palladium mini-mall newly erected on the ground floor. Travelers negotiating the maze of junkies, homeless people and puddles of urine will find it hard to locate basic necessities like food and water, but have no trouble buying a high-end fashion accessory.
It’s time to pause and reconsider, before it’s too late.


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