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September 8th, 2008
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Eating on the fly

A trip to the airport and other wanderings through Prague

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
April 16th, 2008 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Setting up for the lunch buffet rush at Oleo Pazzo in the airport Marriott.
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Oh, the life of a jet setter with an MBA.
Flying to the great cities of the world — Florence, Paris, Moscow, Decatur (in Illinois — not every company sets up shop in coveted locales)! Basking in the glories of … well, the Ramada, the Hilton, the Marriott. In other words, whatever hotel chain offers airport lodging.
Of course, that means their only experience with local cuisine may be whatever hotel chefs sling from the grill.
Yet in Prague, unlike many Western cities, hotels house some of the better restaurants. The first place to earn a Michelin star (Allegro) is part of the Four Seasons. Gordon Ramsay opened Maze in one of the Hiltons, while the top seafood destination, Alcron, resides in the Radisson SAS. And you could add Coda, Hradčany and other very good kitchens to the list.
Out at the airport, Marriott’s Courtyard features a Mediterranean bistro called Oleo Pazzo.
If you stick to the starters, it’s a worthwhile place. Spooning a surprisingly subdued pepper sauce over grilled shrimp, for instance, allows the sweetly fishy flavor of the shellfish to cruise through without hindrance. Just two pieces make up this appetizer, but they rest on a bed of spinach, parrying the bitter snap of fresh greens with strokes of mellow toasted pine nuts and intense dried fruits. The pea soup is a watery puree, but still robust — particularly when boosted by crumbles of fried pancetta.
Beyond that, however, prepare for some disappointing turns.
Heat tears at the ahi tuna, scorching through the luscious flesh until it cringes and shrivels into strings. And Oleo Pazzo manages to torture the delicate fish, burning gorgeous magenta into an ugly grayish-brown. To make matters worse, some enthusiastic line cook crusted the outside with an extra helping of salt.
But wait, there’s more. A less-than-enthusiastic staffer apparently failed to clean the grill, for blackened scars seared into the tuna had a taste familiar to any veteran of backyard barbecues: charred beef.
Maybe that’s the kitchen’s idea of surf and turf.
On the other hand, service is prompt, the beer taps clean, the weekday lunch buffet convenient for fly-in meetings — and the terminals are just across the street.
World tours
The Old Town combination takeaway, café and grocery known as Culinaria also offers the occasional cooking class. On April 21 and May 14, chef Stavros Stamatelopoulos from — just guessing here — Olomouc (or perhaps Athens) is scheduled to teach Greek recipes and techniques. Classes start at 6 p.m. each night, in English, with imported ingredients on sale afterward. Because only six students fit into Culinaria’s friendly confines, there are a few alternate dates. Call 224 231 017 for information.
Meanwhile, V Zátiší called on Austrian chef Josef Dorner to create a special menu of Alpine favorites. Featured at the restaurant April 21–27, the classic dishes are paired with wines from the region. For details or reservations, call 222 221 155.
Short hops
Starting this week, Hergetova Cihelna offers a menu of organic dishes along with its usual global selections. Just an aside, but even if you don’t care for naturally grown vegetables, drop by for a pit stop. The view from their men’s room ranks as one of the best in Prague.
Cowboys now lists Tex-Mex favorites among its usual array of steaks — fitting for a restaurant dedicated to the American Southwest.
It’s spring, and a CzecHouse chef’s thoughts turn to lamb. Sample different preparations during the Hilton’s spring lamb fest, running through April 20.
Forget Paris
Hilton Prague’s other eatery, Café Bistro, lured chef Valerio Bussandri from Parma, Italy, to head up the kitchen. He arrived in January and has already put his stamp on the round-the-clock restaurant’s menu. Check out the swordfish, served cold with grapefruit and Campari dressing, or the basil ravioli stuffed with spicy prawns.
Final (slurred) words
Always good for a story or two, Norman Bice of Fat Boys tells of the guests who lost control of a flaming shot, setting alight a jacket, many unfortunate arm hairs and the bar itself. Just flickers, mind you — no damage done. But no wonder the Old Town bar owner usually seems bemused.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (16/04/2008):

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