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July 7th, 2008
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Honoring tradition

Saltimbocca as it was meant to be
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April 2nd, 2008 issue

As Shakespeare famously asked, what’s in a name?

JAN PŘEROVSKÝ/THE PRAGUE POST
When Italians say it "jumps," they mean this veal specialty melts in your mouth.
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One of the more disturbing culinary trends seems to answer that question with a shrug, as some of today’s chefs prefer to break from traditional definitions. They find it convenient to use cooking terminology loosely, or to discard original meanings altogether.
So you find coq au vin prepared with chicken when the dish depends on tough old rooster to match wits with the dense, earthy sauce. Or a “Colbert” presentation flambéed in Cognac — it’s really a rich but simple sauté in butter. Many restaurants even list turkey as the centerpiece of their saltimbocca.
Certainly chefs are allowed to adapt recipes to changing times or local tastes. And arguments persist over classics like the Caesar salad (anchovies or no?).
But correct terminology allows diners to anticipate flavors and measure the presentation. Calling placid chicken “coq” is misleading, and does tradition a great disservice. Same with saltimbocca — if prepared with veal, each bite will “jump” or melt in the mouth, as promised by the name.
And that’s what it’s about.
Tomáš Mykytyn is chef at Pasta Fresca, an Ambiente Group restaurant located at Celetná 11, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 224 230 244

SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA

Ingredients:
2 kilograms fresh veal loin
100 grams Parma ham
100 grams extra virgin olive oil
50 grams fresh sage
300 grams demi-glace
400 grams Marsala white wine
200 grams butter
100 grams coarse sea salt
10 grams ground black pepper
Preparation:
Cut fresh veal (across grain) into 50-gram slices and pound gently until tender.
Slice Parma ham thinly and place over veal.
Place a leaf of fresh sage over each slice and sprinkle with freshly ground pepper.
Sauté prepared veal slices in butter for about a minute on each side (do not allow to cook through).
Put the meat aside.
Pour Marsala wine into the hot pan, reduce and add semi-glace.
Remove from heat and stir in butter to smooth out sauce.
Return meat to cooling pan and allow to sit in sauce for several minutes.
?Place meat on a plate, pour the sauce over and sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil. 


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