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Appealing simplicity

Gnocchi are easy to dress up and always a hit
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February 20th, 2008 issue

Mention the word “gnocchi” and many people will swoon. They remember, perhaps, creamy and flavorful dishes sampled in an Italian restaurant.

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Looking as good as they taste: The popular dumplings are a base for many flavors.
enlarge
But gnocchi are, simply put, poached dumplings of potato or flour. The small, oblong balls of dough probably originated in Italy. Many cultures, however, prepare something similar — halušky, for instance, or knodel or quenelles.
The beauty of gnocchi is in the “blank slate” nature of potatoes and flour. The bland lumps (gnocchi actually translates as lumps) allow cheese, herbs, spices or fresh vegetables to pop. And the texture blends with cream sauces and serves as a contrast to crunchy items.
For something so simple, gnocchi usually ends up in sophisticated, intriguing and richly flavored preparations — the very sort of thing people long for and remember.
Andrea Accordi is chef at Allegro in the Four Seasons, located at Veleslavínova 2a, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 221 427 000.

 

GNOCCHI WITH PANCETTA AND BLACK TRUFFLE, TALEGGIO CHEESE FONDUE AND GARLIC CREAM SAUCE

Ingredients:
1 kilogram potatoes (red skin)
2 egg yolks
130 grams white flour
140 grams Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
50 grams black truffle, grated
50 grams smoked pancetta (cinta senese), diced
4 deciliters chicken stock
80 grams butter
120 grams Taleggio cheese
50 grams peeled garlic
200 grams milk
50 grams cream
Rock salt
Salt
Preparation:
For gnocchi:
Arrange potatoes on a tray with rock salt and bake at 150 C for one hour.
When baked, peel and run through a mill until finely mashed.
Mix in egg yolk, white flour, 80 grams of Parmigiano Reggiano and salt.
Knead dough until fine, then roll and divide into portions of about 12 grams.
Roll the portions into ball shape and form using a fork turned upside down.
Prepare five gnocchi per person.
In a pot, bring salted water to a boil and gently place gnocchi into water.
After a few minutes, the gnocchi will rise to the surface.
As they rise, remove from water and add to pan with truffle sauce.
For truffle sauce:
In a large pan, simmer chicken stock, butter, pancetta and black truffle until sauce becomes thick and creamy.
Roll cooked gnocchi in sauce and in Parmigiano Reggiano prior to serving.
For garlic sauce:
Blanch garlic in hot water four times.
In a small pot, bring milk and cream to a boil.
Add blanched garlic and simmer for 30 minutes until garlic is soft.
Blend until sauce is fine and smooth.
To finish:
In a soup bowl, place a tablespoon of Taleggio cheese fondue.
Arrange gnocchi on top and drizzle with garlic sauce.
 


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