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September 8th, 2008
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A way with potatoes

Casa Andina does a good job serving Peruvian favorites
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
February 20th, 2008 issue

Casa Andina

Dušní 15
Prague 1–Old Town
Tel. 224 815 996
Open daily 2 p.m.–2 a.m. (kitchen closes at midnight)

Food ***
Service ***
Atmosphere **
Overall ***

KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
There's no better introduction to the flavors of Peru than a Pisco sour.
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FROM THE MENU

Fried yuca 110 Kč
Potatoes stuffed with pork 195 Kč
Beef hearts 260 Kč
Salmon ceviche 295 Kč
Shrimp ceviche 360 Kč
Pisco sour 135 Kč

Casa Andina is worth a visit.
Not as a fine-dining destination, mind you. While Peruvian cuisine may flaunt a reputation for diversity, the lowly potato sets the beat, and aji, a native chili, provides much of the spark for traditional dishes. But it’s what the kitchen manages to do with both that’s interesting.
The explorer Pizarro “discovered” potatoes in what is now Peru and introduced them to Europe in the 1530s. Close to 3,000 varieties still grow in that part of the world, and the role played by potatoes in everyday cooking can’t be overstated. Recipes including the starchy root range from wild dehydrated and reconstituted mixtures to spuds stuffed with various essentials.
Sheer, crispy and deep brown, Casa Andina’s stuffed potatoes’ deep-fried crust shatters into a fluffy, almost ethereal melt-away layer. In the version filled with ground pork, raisins and hard-boiled egg, this beautifully constructed shell softens the hearty blow of densely seasoned meat.
The flavors are elusive: rich and earthy, with a pungent character. Dried fruit slips into the background while insistent olives drone constantly, threatening to upset the balance of spices, shoving a salty taste to the front.
Olives and raisins are an unusual combination, at least to those not reared on the southern continent. Then there’s the sudden intrusion of eggs, hard-cooked and tacky. On the side, a mustard-yellow sauce of aji tamed for the local palate — sweet flavors yielding with great reluctance to fiery pepper.
It’s like Barnum & Bailey’s in full swing — a lot of action and contrast and unexpected moments, backed by plenty of history.
Casa Andina’s kitchen emphasizes authentic presentation, even though the juxtaposition of ingredients may seem bizarre in this market. Beef hearts, filled avocados and other common South American items appear on the menu.
The continent’s other staple starch, manioc, is served as fried “yuca” strips. Dry on the inside, like dough not fully baked but parched of liquid, and golden brown on the outside, the small portion presents just a hint of grassy sweetness. Otherwise, it’s a strangely textured, essentially bland starter, offset by a dish of that sweet-fruity-hot aji sauce.
Peru is justly famous for another creation: ceviche. The restaurant honors this with a couple of interesting options, such as a conventional plate of shrimp and a break from tradition with salmon.
Served in proper style, with red onion, corn and half a sweet potato, the marinated game fish stands out. Perhaps the kitchen splashed a bit too much lime across the plate before sending it out, for the sour-sweet pucker of citrus dominates at first. But the strips of pink meat are incredible. Tormented by juice until firm and tinged in white, the center holds onto its natural ruby color and delicate texture, melting on the tongue as toughened fibers break apart.
It’s a beautiful experience.
It’s unfortunate that no one in the kitchen had the fortitude to counter the piercing acidity with a little more chili, but let it slide. Lime juice tames the bitterness of raw red onion, holding its anger at bay until the finish — a long, long finish, during which the husky snap rushes back with a vengeance. The corn seems like an afterthought, but the sweet potato soothes things with a mellow, earthy taste.
There’s more to discuss. For the price of two small beers, for instance, you can experience a nicely balanced pisco sour. Service is solicitous and warm — maybe a tad too concerned for your comfort. On the other hand, wait staff that care (or just pretend to care) tend to stand out in this city.
And the room … well, if you ignore the mirrored back wall and series of inset flat screens blaring, on one occasion, scenes of frogmen plunging through algae, it’s a fitting, unobtrusive hodge-podge of religious art, earthenware colors and decorative artifacts.
But none of that will matter once the first cocktail or starter arrives at your table.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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