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November 20th, 2008
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Primitive dining

Restaurant returns to the Stone Age; others live (or die) now

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
February 13th, 2008 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Doing the dance macabre, prehistoric-style: Wait staff in caveman (and woman) guise celebrate cannibalism.
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To sophisticates in the bygone big band days, “dinner and a show” generally meant a good steak followed by some tunes from Artie Shaw and his orchestra. The dinner-theater craze followed — touring acts headed by out-of-work American TV stars like Bob Crane shouting lines over the din of clinking silverware.
No chance of that at Stone Age near I.P. Pavlova, the newest in a line of Pravěk restaurants in Prague, largely because the prehistoric theme doesn’t allow for utensils.
The concept is, in many ways, a step back from the chain of medieval establishments one finds in American cities: A “king” presides over jousting knights while guests gnaw on drumsticks and slurp down soup from rustic, hand-held bowls.
Same deal here. Wait staff dressed as scraggly, cave-dwelling tribesmen bang on tom-toms, bring out hunks of meat and make sacrifices to the gods. It’s theater, of sorts, featuring a primitive story line (bad guys try to steal fire, Ron Perlman saves tribe). Food takes second place to the antics of hirsute, grunting bipeds. For this, adults fork over … no, hand over an entry fee of 120 Kč ($6.90). For kids — and programs such as this were designed as family entertainment — it’s 60 Kč.
Call 224 941 938 for more information.
Something Sfinks
First Starbucks, and now Sphinx. The Polish casual diner chain (known as Sfinks in its home country) decided to follow up a recent incursion into Hungary with an assault on the Czech market. Afterward, company executives plan to set up shop in Germany and Romania.
Positive comments are flooding in by the ones and twos about the mini lunchtime pizzas served at Grosseto in BB Centrum. Seems it’s more difficult to screw up a smaller crust.
Bohemia Bagel’s Nebušice operation hosts an Italian night Feb. 14 with all-you-can-eat pasta.
Behind closed doors
Conflicting news from Valleta, the impressive but often-ignored Prague 10 destination. It was set to reopen Feb. 1 after a brief shutdown, but at press time the doors remain locked. Originally it was to be resurrected under the same ownership, but now a source claims that a couple of Brits bought up the space.
Speaking of locked doors, the knobs apparently went missing from Peking Restaurant at I.P. Pavlova. And UM Café in New Town ended its short life, also without much wailing.
Jáma shuts down for remodeling and the installation of a new bar Feb. 17 and 18.
Carpetbaggers
The Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran hosts a Festival of Persian Cuisine that would flatter the great Darius. Traditional music, cooking demonstrations and a lot of food is yours for an entry fee of 400 Kč per person. The event takes place Feb. 20 and 21 in the Praha Hotel (Sušická 20, Prague 6). Call 224 342 621 to reserve a spot or find out more.
Walk of fame
For one night only, Noodles restaurant in the Hotel Yasmin welcomes Michelin Star chef Thilo Bischoff to its kitchen. Bischoff abandons his post at Reiterzimmer Restaurant in Murnau, Germany, for the occasion. Four courses will run 1,750 Kč, including wines. Serving begins at 7 p.m. Feb. 21. Call 234 100 879 for details.
Final (slurred) words
Would like to say “strange doins” at U Dělového Kříže. But confusion is — in this market, anyway — to be expected. Recently a visitor to Prague phoned for a reservation, only to hear a vicious tirade against the Smíchov pub. Seems Luboš Vrchota split with his partners, leaving them in charge and him willing to vent. Calling the alternative number dead-ends in a series of beeps, and the Web site refuses to cooperate. While Vrchota insists U Dělového Kříže will remain open, “I have no idea what the pub looks like or what the standard of service is” since leaving, he says.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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